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Thank you for quick response. Will follow up with your link provided.

Need help. My iconic hero box is missing card. How do I get a replacement?

Just purchased the Pathfinder Battles, Iconic Heroes.
Seriously, you can't count to 6? Missing one of the cards that I just paid $30 dollars to get.

Need replacement product.
Card that is missing is Valeros.

What needs to be done to correct this poor quality control issue with another product of yours?

Thanks. Too many games and too many rules running through my head. Will make a note and add it to my game.

Have not played for a very long time.
During game, players questioned rule and I can't find the answer, search-fu is turning up hundreds of keywords but no answers.

Sample:
Warhammer
Check to acquire 6

Last sentence is if you are not proficient with weapons, the difficulty of the check is increased by 4.

So the question was,
Does this make it Acquire 10 or does it increase all combat checks by 4 or does it do both?

If you are not proficient with weapon, can you use it at all?

For some reason, I thought you could only USE weapons/armor you are proficient with, and the check was just to acquire.

Most products by Paizo change between male and female throughout the game system. Sort of not wanting to make the whole game seem like a male only thing. Spells are gender neutral. Only certain magic items in the RPG had any affect on gender only, and that was usually to change from one to the other.

Very important word. MAY. You may explore again, not must.

If you do keep the add on boxes, it gives you a place to keep cards that go out of play later in the game. about the 3rd expansion you are supposed to remove cards that have the BASIC trait on them (not just cards that have B in upper right corner). That is to give the feeling that you are getting better so you don't keep finding things that are not useful any longer. When you are mid level games, basic thieves tools will not be as useful as masterwork tools, basic weapons will not be as useful as magic weapons and so on. So like mentioned. short of making a divider for each section, back into the box to keep them "out of play".

It is your choice. I think most people will leave them in once they are mixed.

The way I do play is while doing the basic senario, If a deck 1 card comes up, I swap it with the next card from the box (until I draw a "B" card).

I think the way the game is intended would be to remove them until you start the first adventure.

A very simple thing that you can do. Copy the question and official answer from the site to a PDF or Word document. Print it out and take it with you. As new or other important answers show up, print off another couple pages keep them all in a 3 ring binder. I do that with all the games I play. Same problem, I buy the games, I bring the games to the table we play at, and I have to keep up on the rules and clarifications as they come up. Having it in print stops that you made that up part.

To date, is there anything that can boost the cure effect (other than having 3 cure spells go off back to back?

Glad we have that rule right then.

Ability:
Recharge this card to add 1d6 to your combat check.

Question
Does this apply to all forms of combat?
Unarmed
Melee
Spell

Strictly by words it looks like yes. (you cast a spell as it runs in to attack).

Mike, that would be very good to know. It does seem logical that using a ranged weapon should be a ranged attack, shifting out of sword and board.

So they put in multiple copies of one ally that only helps one character? very lame and poor decision.

I was trying to come up with a way to play a dungeon adventure. The rough thought was to decide how many rooms the dungeon would have, and how many hallway encounters it would have (select barriers that would be correct).
If you have 8 rooms and 3 hall encounters. Rooms: deal out x number of monsters(based on # of players), x barriers for rooms, x boons. Deal out one location card for the special problems that room has. Each hall encounter would be a single barrier or monster. Play like a RPG. The party enters a room, encounters the Monster(s), defeat Barriers, then they can find the boon(s). when they move down the hall, the lead character triggers the hallway encounter.
A thought on Boons, Only one attempt to acquire, if the one target fails, that item was not really there or damaged beyond use.

So to make sure I have it right.

Harsk
Ranged:Dex D8+3, Light crossbow and archer (without discarding) would be
Dex (d8+3) and crossbow (d8) and archer (d4)

Merisiel
Dex d12 (but no range) light crossbow and archer (without discarding)
A) Crossbow (d8) archer (d4) and Dex (d4 since she does not have ranged)
but dropping the archer would be
B) Dex (d12) and crossbow (d8)
Or does using the crossbow (with ranged trait) allow her full bonus
C) Dex (d12), crossbow (d8) and Archer (d4)

I thought it was C, and that is how I have been playing, the weapon giving the trait. Was I wrong?

Just to clarify. the multiple archer allies only help one player character that has the ranged sub-skill/trait.

I have been thinking of balsa wood to rebuild the box insert. Keep the same general layout but increase the space. Stack the adventure decks or stand them upright. That would allow all the extra room for sleeved cards. I do sleeve most games to protect cards from damage (drinks, food, children and spilled drinks). The only really tight slot at the moment are the monsters. I have 6 characters prepped so that does keep the blessing deck down to a size that fits fine.

I had a 3 player game last night. We ended the encounter in 7 turns. With different people shuffling the decks, every deck had the henchmen or villain as the top card or 2. I have run out of time in a one player game (not able to close locations due to needing a 6 on a d6 and spending 5+ turns trying to close one location)

How do you choose to just make something a ranged attack? (sorry very late and very tired)

I would think that any time you choose to use a ranged weapon it would become a ranged attack? (I thought all ranged weapons had shift to Dex or ranged instead of Str.)

I have not opened the expansion yet, so I am only trying to remember basic box cards.

I really liked the Crits happen run through. He took the time to explain how things work and didn't just make rolls. The errors he had the put in text edits to correct them. Overall, the best I have seen to date.

Fentum, I had a really hard time to figure out how to get the subscription to work here. I also had many times it would put the core game in the list. I tried different things then about the 5th time, it came up correctly. I would love to purchase from my FLGS to keep them in business but if I can't get the promo cards from them...

Sadly if my FLGS goes under, so will all future purchases.

Edit, spelling correction.

I stayed with the original way of I was playing, one strength die and the bonus d12.

As a side note, the teaching lessons today went over very well. After teaching people to play, 3 of them walked out with the game, 2 more put it on the next buy list and the store owner sat with the first group to play and gave it two thumbs up!

Great day and had 2 games where we won, and one that time just kicked our butts.

Without seeing the rest of the card text. I would also agree that they should go to top, you are returning the cards and this part does not say to put them on the bottom of the pile (I thought there were a few cards that do specify bottom of pile, but I have been known to make errors).

I really hope you don't do anything through BGG. They do not allow everyone to sign up for an account or to purchase items. they have no customer support to fix the problems that will not allow people to join or log into for a purchase.

The way I was playing is when you reveal a weapon you change the die and get a bonus.

the question had me confused reading "What is an unmodified Strength die"

It looks like. reading it again I "think" I see where my confusion is coming from in the decision.

I will keep playing the way I thought was correct.

I set up all 11 characters (exchanging plate and starknife as recommend). The only thing I recall not working correctly is Blessing of the Gods. I was short about 12 of them to fill each deck. If you do this, you will only have about 6 basic cards left for building encounter decks (which would make loot higher grade that would actually get worse as you dump basic cards after the adventure).

Most of those are strength/melee check weapons though. I should have been more clear. Do we have one that has you roll something other than strength/melee but has the melee trait? This to me is the same thing as the Ranged/Dexterity question. - which lends itself to a yes answer. We need an official weigh in, however.

Yes I would like to see the official rule for this.

Another quick though I can't remember if I have seen or understood,

If the monster has combat to defeat.

If you use a ranged weapon do you start with base strength die, then add the bow/crossbow bonus?

you could then end up with:
Strength die to start with
Dexterity die and bonus d6 (for bow).

It makes sense that if you are a range attacker like the rogue you would want to be able to default to dex as combat, but that seems against the core of combat starts as melee, using strength as the base.

I guess the easy way to ask this would have been.
Do all normal combat checks start with Strength? Any that would start with Dexterity as combat die?

Paganeagle that agrees with Mike. I have a feeling I have been making my combats harder than needed. It would explain how I died 5 times in a row. Always missing combat by one or two.

And if you are playing a multi player game. If you do acquire it, you can still just discard it. At the end of the adventure you can then put give it to another player to put into a deck when everyone rebuilds and cleans up decks.

Banish it to the box to save your butt (need magic trait to defeat monsters) or pass it to a spellcaster so they will be stronger next game.

After reading all the way through this. I crossed one article that the rule from Mike had me confused on.

In combat.
Monster shows combat, strength 13.

Character shows Strength d10.
Character reveals weapon (great axe) which notes roll Strength or Melee die + d12.

I took this to mean you would roll a d10 and a d12, but the ruling was that you roll:
d10 for strength
d10 and d12 for weapon
for a range of 3 to 32.

I can see both aspects, but which is really correct? And which way are you playing?

This is important to learn, I have volunteered to spend the day teaching people how to play and this would be a very basic item that will show up in every game.

Thanks.

Correction. I had not read his actual card (thought it was a combat then combat card). Just what I needed, something else to confuse me.

Thanks

In another thread it said you had to defeat both conditions. You have to complete the second condition because it may have more penalties that could be applied.

die 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9
00 100 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09
10 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19
20 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29
30 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39
40 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49
50 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59
60 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69
70 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79
80 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89
90 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99

This is be best I can chart it in a post.

I think Arizhel has a very good point. Charisma is the stat to be the leaders. They should be in position to be used as such. IMO.

I have been doing a lot of reseach on Mules. Many nice things that I have NEVER seen incorporated into any game.

When a horse and a donkey breed, you get a Mule.
Mules are 99.5% sterile and not able to breed but a rare few can.
Mules gain the best of both parents.
Mule usually has several advantages over either core parent.
The mule has an incrdible carry limit and endurance, but does not handle live weight as well as pack weight.

Every product I have seen in print always has the mule as a very weak animal and not worth the effort, that is hardly the case.

Does anyone have home rules they would be willing to share?

My game uses the stats of the base parent horse, then adds +2 to Str, +1 Dex, +1 Con. They get a +1 to Int (we use 2 different int scales for animals)
When a PC decides to really put the effort into breeding top end mule or purchasing a top end mule it will use the correct horse and apply the advanced template.

Our last 2 groups worked very well.

Group A) The character who the item seemed to fit the best got it, and passed gear down to other characters. All "sales" ran through the sorcerer who had the best skill and split all loot evenly after the sales day was over.

Group B) More to track but worked well also.
One person kept a running log of all magic and treasure.
As characters claimed or retuned gear the "master list" was updated (so we would always know what we had as a party) As needed we would sell all items that the party decided we didn't need. Gold was split by shares (Each party member got one full share, each henchman got a half share, and a running "party pool" got a full share).
The party pool was for large items or things the full party could use, this was used to purchase a keep for the party to use.

Both seemed to work very well.

As a side note we assign tasks to each person who plays when possible. things like treasure keeper, story keeper (very usefull when someone misses a session), NPC handler/recorder etc.

109 An elderly man that looks like he has money is staggering out of the inn as you walk in. A couple shady characters follow him out. Turns out the elderly man is a very high level character acting drunk while under a shapeshift effect. He like to "clean" out the "trash". (ahh one of my old AD&D characters)

Good work from you guys. Wish I would be in town today to try this out.

Think of the weight. 4 to 7 feet long, 2 or 3 inches in diameter. (per the description of Staff). Go on line and find a source like (online metals com) and run it into the calculator. This is what you get for steel.
4' x 2" 42 pounds
4' x 3" 96 pounds
7' x 2" 74 pounds
7' x 3" 167 pounds
This would not be a light weapon.

Artanthos wrote:

Notice any difference in the wording?
A wizard's immortality is just that. The chance to live forever. With appropriate secondary precautions, a wizard becomes effectively unkillable.

Correct.

Oh how I love this rule. Monster races don't list any age limits. If I play any monster race I get to live forever right. The book does not say they die.

Seems WAY broken....

Low level is a good time for the party to work out issues and fix things before the game gets too far. Also a good time to role play a little and set the mood for how the party interacts.

I like the low level play and have lots of fun in that part of the game.

General issue.

If you plan to run a game world that is vastly different from normal games.

Tell the players up front what you have changed and apply the rules across the board.

This is a fantasy hero game. The PC's should not be the Cannon fodder for the DM's NPC to become the hero's. (I have a feeling that all of the NPC characters used to be his characters from earlier games and this is his way to play all of them still)

Just some real input about mules.

Generally mules are:

Just as fast as a horse.
Tend to be stronger than a horse when pulling loads.
Normally can't carry the same live weight as a horse.
Need less feed than a horse (make more of what they get, if you feed the same ammount of food to a mule it will become obese).
It is very hard to make a mule mad, but they hold a grude for years.
Duing WWII pack mules would carry loads for 16 to 18 hours per day for weeks at a time. Something that a horse could not do.
Intelligence, This is the odd one. they are smarter than both parent animals (the horse and donkey).
Wisdom, they take training very well, teach them right the first time as it is hard to retraing them.
Jumping, need less than 3x body length to jump 150% the height of the mule.
Combat. the mule is one of the few pack animals that can kick in any direction including straight out to the sides. and unlike a hores, can kick if you are holding one foot off the ground.
And it is almost impossible to make a mule go someplace that it thinks is a danger to himself. They are not noted for jumping over cliffs, or walking off of them either.

overall, Mules have been given a very bad rep by RPG game designers.

Mules are really good animals, problem is they only have one listing for them and that really is a bad view of them.
The "pony" as a mule would turn it into something like the general mules used on farms, or a common pack mule

Mining mule. It was shorter than the normal mules used on farms. Acutally deals with going underground very well, Have a huge pulling capacity (even greater that the farm mule), but did not run as fast and did not carry live weight well.

Racing mule. Some people thought it would be a good sport and started to breed for fast mules that could carry light loads. Historically one such mule was owned by a trackhand who would challange professionals in races for side money. His mule never lost to any thoroughbred.

Draft Mule. This was the king of mules when it came to size. Average was about 2 hands shorter than a large draft horse that was used as the parent. although shorter they often had even more pulling power than the draft horse parent. The best mix for this was the Mammoth Jack donkey and the Shire Horse. (Belgian horse would be the second best.)

Yes I spent several days on line when it was time to make mules for the game.

The idea of the pig farmer/wizard is great. He had a couple adventures that did not turn out well, lost his familiar and started a farm. Once he had time to heal he called his new familiar and now hides as the crazy farmer. He helps out in the town but to all outsiders, he is just crazy. At least until the band of hostile monsters show up.

Why would he need a combat weapon called a hand axe? Why not have him use a woodsman axe and Hatchet? He is not attacking a tree, he would be cutting back dead/sick limbs, felling a tree from a dangerous location or something similar. No combat, no combat rolls.

At least that is how they have alwasy worked in game worlds I have played in.

Great work. Thanks for putting up some really great ideas. My last GM insisted that all not monsters in his world all existed so far below normal that it was really sad. Things like stats were all between 3 and 6. No ability to defend them selves (30 skeletons all but destroyed a fortified walled city of 1500 and never had to attack the city, just walk around it.)

Glad to see some very good ideas.