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I’ve seen a lot of posts throughout the boards bemoaning the lack of availability of some of the Pathfinder Pawn sets. While I, too, would rather be able to simply pick one up at my FLGS, making one from the PDF is not a difficult task. Tedious maybe, but not difficult.
1) Print the PDF on 110 lb cardstock Printed Cardstock
2) Using spray adhesive, glue each printed page to two other pieces of cardstock. You’ll have stacks of blank cardstock-blank cardstock-printed cardstock. Let the adhesive cure under some weight for at least a couple hours. Blank to Blank, Printed to Blank
3) Cut out the pawn halves. I use a Fiskars paper cutter. Cut Pawn Halves, My Cutter
4) Using a glue stick, glue the front and back “stacks” together and let sit under some weight for a couple of hour until the glue cures.
5) If you want to trim the corners, there are multiple corner trimmers available at hobby and craft stores. I haven’t trimmed any of them yet, as I don’t have a trimmer, but I don’t think they look too bad even with squared corners. Finished Pawns
I’ve even made some pawns from other PF compatible sources – Frog God’s Perilous Vistas series for instance Homemade FFG Pawns. I’ve also turned a few of Paizo’s Paper Minis into actual thick pawns instead of the thinner ones originally envisioned. Paper Minis Pawns.
With 6 layers of the cardstock the pawns are almost the same thickness as the Paizo pawns. They are very sturdy and fit in the bases just fine.
As for storage, I print a 3x5-sized card on cardstock with the cover image on one side and the index on the other and then store the pawns in zipper baggies. I try to limit each baggie to 30 pawns which seems to work pretty well. Pawn Storage
All in all, it's a bit time consuming, but in the end, you can have a beautiful set of Paizo pawns, and if you need extras of any of your pawns, it's easy enough to print a few extra pages.
Just to clarify:
Those pawns are 6 layers of 110 lb cardstock? And they fit snugly in the bases?
That is correct. Here's a closer look at one "stack" - two blank pages with the printed one on top. Triple Layer Two stacks make the full six-layer pawn.
They are just a hair thinner than the cardboard Paizo uses for their pawns, but they fit very well in the bases.
I've made pawns also, but instead of printing on 110# I instead print on regular 20# paper or 1-up label sheets. I then adhere the paper to a piece of chipboard using a glue stick, or simply stick the label to it. I then trim to size and glue two sides of the pawn to each other. They look OK, though trimming the rounded corners with scissors sometimes isn't that great.
Fumarole wrote:I then adhere the paper to a piece of chipboard using a glue stick, or simply stick the label to it.Which thickness did you use, and how well does it fit the bases? Chipboard comes in several sizes (thicknesses), and I'm not sure which you're talking about.
The chipboard I used is 1/16" thick, and as BV210 mentioned it can be hard to cut, especially the corners, though this may depend on the quality of your scissors. I had just standard scissors that are meant to cut paper. A razor could also work, but I didn't try that.
They fit snugly enough to the bases that I noticed if the glue used didn't extend all the way to the edge of the paper, repeated use will eventually cause the paper to come undone from the chipboard due to the pawn base pushing it up. This means a label sheet would be better to use as it is likely to form a better seal, though of course this makes the homemade pawns more expensive to create.
I don't have photos handy of the finished products, but when I get home I'll see if I can remember to take some.
edit - I just remembered that I do have a photo of the Black Magga pawn I made for Rise of the Runelords. I didn't round the corners, but you can see it here.
I use this stock. It's the same thickness as Paizo's pawn stock. I print the pawn on normal weight paper, wrap it around the stock, and use a gluestick to fasten it in place.
Another trick I learned is to print the two sides feet-to-feet, not head-to-head. If the fold is at the top, the open ends suffer from being inserted in the base and tear or peel up. With the fold at the bottom, there's no edge to catch when you insert it in the base.