First off, sorry if this isn't the right section, I was baffled as to where this would fit in.
I was inspired by some earlier projects I had seen, but couldn't remember clearly after having vast amounts of frustration with repetitive map drawing, and limited battle-mat space. So, my basic idea, was as follows:
The TV in this case would be on, hooked to a computer or mobile device as a monitor, and would be displaying images of maps and terrain (And other things, as appropriate) scaled to the physical miniatures we would use on top of the plexiglass. Thus, a battle-mat where I can easily create and share, and scroll through large maps of dungeons and the like without having to re-draw every few rooms.
The Problem: I have no experience whatsoever in any form of carpentry, or knowledge of the tools and materials I should use for this. So I was hoping someone with a little more experience than I could share some tips on the quickest, easiest, and most simple ways to get an electronic battle-mat like this running.
I went looking for youtube videos on horizontally mounting a flat screen and couldn't find anything...may just be my search terms though.
My carpentry skills are poor (but that hasn't stopped me). I made a small (8 inch high 33x44 inch) table to sit on top of my regular gaming tables to elevate the game mat above the players' character sheets and food. Used it as a proof of concept for the group, they liked it, so went and spend about $20 on materials and used one of the other player's power tools to make cleaner and more accurate cuts. And it's worked out well.
Of course the next thought was mounting a horizontal flat screen to it with a plexiglass overlay. I can see how to do it in my head. But it's the issue of cost that that's big thing stopping us.
But in essence, it's "simply" (relative to tools and skill) building a frame out of 1x2 inch or 2x4 inch lengths of wood that fits the height, depth, and length of the flat screen. The plexiglass could be mounted on top of the frame (so that it doesn't have to be attached to the monitor). The backing is the what is dependent on the actual monitor used. Finding one where power and connection ports are on the back (as opposed to the sides) seems to be the best, so that the frame will fit snugly around the monitor. Then, I would think, two "bars" of wood solidly attached to the back of the frame would support the weight of the monitor and could be spaced such that they wouldn't get in the way of chords and air-flow. And if possible, use 3 or 4 crossbar backings, as well as a slightly wider frame on the bottom to keep the frame from going trapezoidal. (by wider frame on the bottom I mean, if -> points towards the inside of the frame, then a cross section would look like an L, a 1x2 main frame standing two inches high, 1 inch wide, and mounted to the bottom is another 1x2, 1 inch high, two inches wide, so that one inch sticks out creating a ledge inside the frame).
Then mount legs on it so the whole frame sits at least an inch above what ever surface you put the whole thing on to avoid issues of drink spills and what not.
The whole thing could be built (not including the monitor & plexiglass) for under $40 and in a few hours (faster and better with power tools).
As far as a tools and materials list:
Wood screws
Wood glue
Power drill
Power saw (making flat cuts with a hand saw can be difficult, or if you're me near-impossible)
Monitor that is X inches wide, Y inches long, and Z inches deep.
Lumber for frame: Total Z" x 1" x (2X+2Y+2)"
Crossbars, at least 2, 1" x 1" x either X+2" or Y+2"
Table feet: four 2" x 2" x desired-height"
Hope that helps. Searching youtubes for "make you own table" how-to's should also help, but their table-tops will essentially be your plexiglass, so just focus on the frame and legs.
My intention is to build one of these at some point too. The idea I had for mounting the TV was to bolt a wall mount to the top surface of a base table. Since these have adjustable rails that attach to the VESA mounting points on the back of the TV, it would be far more secure than trying to rig some sort of 'cradle' that may or may not align to structurally sound points on the TV's chassis.
With that done, it would simply be a matter of building a protective frame with a clear surface to enclose the TV — a much simpler project since the frame wouldn't need to support a heavy electrical device. Additionally, with the TV centrally supported by a VESA mount, players would have room to stow a thin book or two in the space between the base table and the back/bottom of the TV.
BTW, if you have a Flip-Mat subscription and want to make use of the PDFs with this setup, then a 50-inch HDTV is the size you'll want. The screen dimensions on such a TV are 43×24 —the perfect size to accommodate a 30×24 Flip-Mat at actual size with no scaling or cropping.
Wow. I hadn't even considered a lot of these options. I had been planning on building the table around an embedded TV, not having a TV attached to the game.
Laithorn, it would basically be a TV wall-mounted horizontally on the top, and plexiglass or something similar over the top, what did you plan for the sides? Also, I'm a little concerned about heat build up from extended use without ventilation. Would this be an issue?
That said, these are some really interesting ideas I hadn't considered before (And I still am going to need to find a -very- large table apparently) and I appreciate the sizing tips. A sense of scale is really bringing this together in my head.
Since the setup I was planning relies on the wall mount for support, I had planned on making the 'cover' (i.e. the frame containing the plexiglass top) a removeable piece that sits atop the base table. (In my case, I'd want to use my existing coffee table as the base table, so rather than fitting the size of the frame to the TV, my notion was to fit the frame to the coffee table.)
My thinking was to have support posts at each of the frame's 4 corners along with a post in the center of each of the long sides. To ensure rigidity, furring strips would be added along all four sides. Additionally, to ensure that the frame could not be pushed off the base table by accident, my plan is to bore holes into the bottom of each post and insert a matching dowel that protrudes by at least half an inch to form a peg. These pegs would then seat into holes bored into the top of the base table.
As for heat, LED TVs run a lot cooler than other types, but I'd still have some ideas for ventilation. First, if the furring strips do not form a completely enclosed box, then you'll actually have space between the bottom of the frame and the top of the base table. (If you recall, I mentioned being able to store a couple thin books on the table below the TV.) If you want more active cooling, then you'll employ the same method used to cool computers: fans.
Assuming your frame's furring strips form a completely enclosed box, you would cut a number of circular holes on one side and mount silent PC cooling fans inside them, making certain the fans blow outward, exhausting hot air. On the opposite side of the table you can either drill lots of small hole for air-intake or cut similarly sized holes, perhaps with some sort of filter to trap dust particles. Lastly, you'll want to make certain that there is at least a little clearance between the TV screen's bezel and the plexiglass so that you can get some airflow across the screen — might not be a bad idea to affix some silicone bumpons to the screen's bezel to ensure it can't come flush against the plexiglass.
When it comes to supplying power to the fans, I'm open to better suggestions, but my initial thought is to just use a low-wattage PC power supply. Since you only need fans on the exhaust side of the frame, the cable lengths on most fans should be adequate to reach the power supply.
It might be easier (and cheaper) to instead buy a projector, and mount it on the ceiling. Point it down at the table. Project onto a white non-glossy tablecloth.
A projector setup would be easier and cheaper, but once you start having to replace bulbs, those savings are going to diminish. Additionally, there are a few other drawbacks to projector setups.
Unless you are in a board room or media room, many people will consider a projector to be an eyesore. If you happen to play in the kitchen or dining room, there's also a good possibility that you have a hanging light fixture in the way. For me the deal killer is that anything in between the projector and the surface (like minis or people pointing) will cast shadows over the map — not to mention being 'painted' with the map. Now those issue can be addressed with rear projection, but then we're back to building a custom table — one where people's foot room may be compromised.
That's not to say that any of these three setups wouldn't impress your average group of gamers, but there are trade-offs to each one. One big thing to consider with the TV method is that you'll want to make sure the top is proof against spilled drinks, and that people don't mar your surface with pens, dice, and other gaming implements.
I am sure putting a 50" TV is OK the first time, but what about the second or 3rd? Unless you have lots of money (or know where to get them) you won't get the good one and even then, they always say, the larger the display the more likely you will have problems. But you want to put it horizonal and under plastic so people can spill on it etc. How long will this TV last over a projector?
Sure the projector has its faults but it is going to last.
50-inch LEDs are an increasingly common size, and unlike with an entertainment center, for tabletop purposes our focus would be on quality-only rather than quality and features. 3D, SmartTV, 120Hz, ethernet, etc... none of those would be pertinent features, so we aren't going to need a top-of-the-line $1000+ set.
Just looking at Amazon... LG, Vizio, and Samsung all have Energy Star certified 50-inch TVs with 4-star or higher ratings at the $650 price point. Looking at projectors with the same specs (i.e. 4-star reviews, Energy Star, 1080p) the prices start at $660. This means we would have to lower our expectations from 1080 to 720 or lower resolutions to have a lower initial expense.
What concerns me more [an an IT guy] though is that I've seen projectors fail more frequently than LED/LCD monitors. Considering the corporations I've worked for have had dozens to hundreds of monitors deployed for every projector, that's not exactly encouraging. Now I won't discount the possibility that someone else's experience could be the reverse, but IME the MTBF for an LED screen is orders of magnitude longer before bulb or even projector replacement is needed.
As for the orientation of the devices, orienting a projector to face downward is changing its expected orientation the same as it is to face a TV skyward. The difference here is that a projector has moving parts whereas an LED screen does not. Also bear in mind that LEDs are frequently embedded in kiosks, angled downward in hospital rooms, etc. so the notion of putting one behind glass with a non-standard orientation isn't without precedent.
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It looks like someone has done just this, but I can't find a how-to. I noted the guy who made it said it cost him about $3,000 to make the table, but this was because he used oak (and of course the table itself is very well appointed). Perhaps you could contact him.
While not exactly what you are doing (actually, your project is simpler), this how-to may be helpful: it's how to make a flat-top arcade cabinet with an LCD screen.
My thought was if you're the kind of person who, say, can only afford one TV (silly me, I know), you might mount a TV on a hinge on a table where you could use the hinge to lay it flat, and then cover it with a "lid" made of a wooden frame and perspex for when you want to use it to game, then if you want it to watch TV, you can remove the lid, and pull the TV upright. I have no idea how possible that is though.