blakbuzzrd's page

50 posts. 5 reviews. No lists. 1 wishlist.


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Our campaign is terrifically juvenile, in the way that 8th-grade boys are juvenile: full of horribly offensive humor that hits pretty much every possible button for insensitivity. Sometimes it feels like a dare to see who will manage to actually offend the rest of us first. No one has yet succeeded.

There isn't any zone of humor that is off-limits. At one point we made a bunch of bingo boards to meta-game our sessions with: the squares contained most of the recurring tropes in our humor. We actually can't play at the married fellas' houses, because we don't want our spouses to hear the paint-peeling language and dialog.

In terms of campaign effect, this layer of immaturity helps us banter and keep the action light. OTOH, because we aren't deadpan "roleplaying," sometimes we aren't paying close enough attention to solve necessary puzzles. Bungling is a way of life.

In sum, my campaign is the story of possibly the most ineffective party of adventurers ever, who spend most of their time ridiculing one another and everything around them.

It's like Arrested Development in Golarion.

Thanks, all. I intended to add the red patterns on her upper leggings from the module art, but hadn't followed through. Now I will. I also am looking at changing the color on the base such that it doesn't all run together. Hopefully the change to the base, a little of Skullcrafts poison mix static grass (dark green and purple), and the red patterning on her thigh guards will do the trick.

Oh, and a quick color note: she's a muted olive drab, rather than a gray; also, that's actually semi-metallic metal. The silver is actually GW Boltgun + Mithril highlights, and I used black to create contrast.

Thanks again for the advice!

DGRM44 wrote:
Are there any good Pathfinder (or other fantasy rpg) counters available for sale? I would like to try them in my game as opposed to miniatures...but I can't find any I like so far.

Seen the ones from Dark Platypus Games? They're nice-looking.

I'm glad she doesn't come with a bow. I'd hate for her to shoot that poison arrow into a PC's heart.

Sean K Reynolds wrote:
blakbuzzrd wrote:
So how did you get the bumpy/tubular texture of the tentacles?
Heh, that was easy. I rolled out a little bit of greenstuff, then twisted it--held one end and gently spun the other end, making sure not to squeeze it very hard. That's what creates the almost-spiral texture on the tentacle (it's spun so many times that you can't see that it actually spirals around and around, it just looks like circular rings).

Brilliant. Now, on a smaller scale: tiefling horns, here I come!

LOVE them. I love the ink wash tests, too!

So how did you get the bumpy/tubular texture of the tentacles?

Wolf Munroe wrote:
I'm jealous of her face. Lips and eyes are impressive in a "but how did he do it?!" kind of way.

Aw, shucks, I'm blushing.

So the first thing you need to do is, er, choose your mini wisely. Me, I love Derek Schubert's sculpts, because he always includes big, expressive eyes. You get a lot of canvas to work with.

The eyeshadow is done via thin glazes of purple (mix of Reaper Blood Red and Sapphire Blue).

Eyelining is done with Reaper Brown Liner. The sculpt makes this part easy.

Morgen wrote:
Very nice work on the paint job! The base could use a little something more to spruce it up completely if your looking for a little critique.

Yep. I totally agree; just thinking about what might be thematically appropriate. Any ideas?

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I painted her for my RotRL campaign. Comments and criticism welcome!

Nualia of Burnt Offerings

Not forever, mind you, as I love the product. Unfortunately, some unexpected medical emergencies dictate I curtail discretionary spending.

As such, I need to cancel all subscriptions for the present.

Now I need a waaaaaaaaambulance.

0gre wrote:
I like them but... how do they stick to the minis when you pick them up? I've seen the magnetic ones and they are nice but expensive. Maybe a bit of tacky putty?

Print them on adhesive vinyl (or on the cheaper side, clear mailing label sheets, available at any Office Depot or similar), and apply that to flexible steel ribbon (or something like this: Rectangular bases, available in flexible steel). You'll need to affix a magnetic base bottom to your mini; Litko Aerosystems sells such bits, such the ones here: Square magnetic bases.

That's how I'd do it, if I was serious about keeping the marker in place when I moved the mini. Usually, though, I don't have conditions that last long enough to be bothered by having to move the marker and the mini separately.

Ross Byers wrote:
I added a spoiler tag.

Oh, shoot! Thanks for catching that!

Doug's Workshop wrote:
I do occasionally use a pair of Optivisors. They're kinda like the magnifiers dentists wear, but for hobbyists. You definitely DO NOT need them to start, but they're great things once you really start getting into the hobby.

+1. I have perfect vision, but I will tell you that I notice a SIGNIFICANT reduction of eyestrain when using my Optivisor. There's no need to squint at all, and you realize just how much you normally squint at minis when you put them on. I had to train myself to relax and let the Optivisor do the work. And, because you can't really see anything else while wearing it, it helps you get into the zone and focus on the mini. Also, the Optivisor reminds you to stand up and walk around every so often, and let your eyes focus on something at a different distance. The 'visor is one of the things I wouldn't paint without anymore.

Do you have any friends who paint minis? If so, the costs of getting into the hobby could be significantly lower. You might be able to talk your buddy into letting you paint a bit with his paints (sell it as him/her teaching you the ropes), while you build up your stash. Depending on how generous your friend is, all you'd need is your own brush, really.

I know I've done that for several friends of mine.

The teaching part, not the mooching. I mooch in other ways.

If there's an FLGS near you, call them and ask if they have any painting workshops, or if anyone there teaches. Usually you can go use what's there. There's a group I periodically paint with, and several of them have basically the entire Reaper line. They are more than willing to let me partake, even though I have my own meager set of paints with me.

Alan Sinclair wrote:
The only limit to this wondrous device is as you blow up the PDF the quality begins to drop.

QFT. This is why I started recreating key battlemaps in Photoshop, so as to get resolution worthy of 1-inch scale printing.

I started doing it when my players were in Thistletop (RotRL #1), and am currently working on the various floors of The Misgivings in RotRL #2.

Something else I did was to cut the map up room-by-room, such that heroes never knew where things were going or how much dungeon was left. No more need to cover the table with blank paper!

Kevin Andrew Murphy wrote:
So what's the name of the figure you've got in the example? A fop in knee breeches looks like he'd be a fun figure for a lot of characters.

RotRL Spoiler:

That would be the Imperial Noble, from Werner Klocke's Freebooter line. He's playing the role of RotRL's Aldern Foxglove, and as such, he's a nice alter ego to his future self: the Skinsaw Man.

Snorter wrote:
No, tried just now, and got the same message.

Well, bugger. I don't know what's wrong -- and there's nothing on Dropbox's forums that is helping.

Anybody else get the same message?

If you want, I can email them to you from my Gmail account. PM me?

After watching the movie about Helvetica last year, I rediscovered a love for that font.

It's Arial that I hate. It's Helvetica Velveeta.

Snorter wrote:
I get a message 'file is damaged and cannot be repaired'.

My fault -- I had the file open in Photoshop, doing other things. Dropbox doesn't like to let it go when that happens, I think. Give it another whirl, and if it doesn't work, lmk.

Black Dow wrote:
Out of curiosity how big is the Moor Hound/Barghest when compared to a standard Reaper/Pathfinder mini?

Thanks! As for your question, the base you see it on is a 50mm Warmachine base. It's definitely a Large-sized creature on a battlemap.

I LOVE these. Goblins, nice colors, and layout such that you get the meat of the condition without having to dig around in the CR. I can hand these to my players and I know that they'll only need a few seconds to get the gist of things, rather than several minutes to figure it out. Disclaimer: we're all new at playing Pathfinder, so any leg up speedwise helps everyone.

In fact, I liked 'em so much I revised my own set of Condition Markers to match them. If you need a set of .pdf battlemap condition markers for those moments when you hand these cards to your players, feel free to have at 'em, available in this thread:

have some Pathfinder Condition Markers

If you want them, make sure to get the updated versions (Mk II).

Again, love the cards.

So I painted Reaper's Moor Hound as part of a mini exchange, and tried to match the colors of the Bestiary barghest as closely as possible. Whaddya think?

Barghest view 1
Barghest view 2
Barghest view 3

UPDATE 3/18/11: NEW AND IMPROVED! The files below correspond to the recently released Gamemastery Condition Cards: that is, only the conditions represented on those cards appear, and the font and colors used match as closely as possible to the cards. Some conditions are included only once, while others are listed several times. I tried to give multiples to the conditions that seemed more likely to occur in party situations.

Pathfinder Condition Markers, Mark II (.pdf)

In case you are a Photoshop person and want to make your own, here's the .psd file I made:

Condition Marker Template, Mark II (.psd)

The font used, as near as I can tell, is "Yikes!," which is available at Dafont and similar sites.


Petros Lorrimor = Peter Lorre. Nice tonal cue for classic film buffs!

Jason Nelson wrote:
Even if someone is being a dick to you, show some class and rise above it.

QFT from across the aisle.

"In the beginning was the word...of Wil Wheaton."

Hmm. Both because of the art and my interests elsewhere, I thought of the Arcane Tempest Gun Mages from Privateer Press's Iron Kingdoms setting. The art specifically reminds me of Ryan from the Black 13th. Maybe because "gunslinger" is a special characteristic of some pistol-wielders in Warmachine who can fire at melee range without suffering a free strike.

brock wrote:
Do keep an eye on the consistency of the paints, especially ones that you don't often use. When Citadel switched to the screw-top bottles, I noticed that mine dried out quicker. I can normally rescue anything that hasn't hardened completely with a squirt of water and a good stir.

Store them upside down. The paint itself will create the airtight seal.

Sean K Reynolds wrote:
Learning how to assembly-line your methods will increase your speed. As in, "I have ten guys who need this color brown, I'll open the brown, paint all the brown spots on those minis, then close the brown and get to work on the next color." Depending on how simple the mini is, I can do about 8 identical paint jobs in an hour.

That will never be me, I'm afraid. I started down the pernicious path of painting with glazes, and it has dominated me ever since. I think it's an expression of OCD.

Maybe I'm just a slow painter, but I have to wonder: what can you possibly get accomplished in only an hour?

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After casting around in search of the right solution for battlemat condition markers, I realized that there wasn't anything out there that was both immediately legible and completely unobtrusive. I like the Litko markers, but I don't like that the text of them is hidden by the mini. I like the Dark Platypus magnetic flags, but it seems like a lot of rigmarole, and it puts more clutter on the map. I have no desire to use those stacking magnet rings I've seen used elsewhere, and the pipe cleaner/rubberband options just looked bad IMO.

Yeah, I'm picky. Your point?

So I fired up Photoshop and made my own, as I'm sure many before me have done.

As I am currently just getting into the WorldWorks Games paper terrain, cardstock was a natural choice. That said, I wanted something that could be used either as a flat cardstock tag to slide under a mini, or -- in the case of close melee -- in such a way as to show the condition without it being hidden under the bases of surrounding minis.

I made a page of counters to include all possible states (many of them only rarely needed, but hey, it's paper, and I had room). In fact, the only condition left off was "broken," because I couldn't foresee ever needing that on a map.

Here are a few pics of what I came up with: pics of Pathfinder Counters

Here's how they work:

1. Print the .pdf page on 80 lb cardstock or similar. Regular paper works fine, too, but if you want them to last longer than a session, cardstock is a nice choice. NOTE: make sure your print page is set to print at 100% size (no scaling).

2. Grab some scissors (or if you are a papercraft adept, reach for your cutting mat, steel ruler and snap-off blade).

3. Decide whether you want the counters to lie flat on the map, or for the colored tabs to stand up vertically.

3a. If you choose the former, cut just below the colored tabs.

3b. If you choose the latter, cut just above the colored tabs.

That's it! So have at it by clicking the link below: cheap as free, peeps:

Pathfinder Condition Markers

On a side note, cool mini display!

The term, I'm told, is "figmentia."

Far, far, far more acquired than painted.

Far, far, more prepped for priming than painted.

Far more primed than painted.

More painted than finished.

Total minis finished: about five. Three Reaper figures as gifts for others, one Warmachine Ironclad, and one Privateer Press Viktor Pendrake, the latter of which is another gift.

I find it harder to finish things for myself.

This is awesome, btw. Thanks much -- I have one character in my party who has several ranks in various perform skills, and since we are running Burnt Offerings at the moment, that means that I would probably have to deal with the Sandpoint Theatre at some point. Now I can!

I found a bit of advice from the incomparable Derek Schubert re: painting tattoos to look believable (this is for after you paint whatever design you have in mind onto the mini):

"With tattoos, I glaze over the freehand with the base skin color and highlight over it with the skin highlight, to make the tattoo look embedded rather than on the surface."

Here's a link to a thread with a tattoo he painted in just such a manner.

Two thoughts:

1. Mix your tat color with your flesh color, and use that. Maybe a ratio of 2:1 tat to flesh, and then thinned appropriately.

2. Take the tat color and thin it 1:4 with water, and use successive layers.

Lastly, as you are doing a lot of little lines, consider adding a drop of Flow Aid to the mix, particularly if you do something like #1 above and don't thin your paint as much.

In a pinch, the paper minis are always winners. I typically follow the method outlined in the .pdf instructions, with one alteration: I glue the mini's base to a bit of sheet styrene (AKA leftover hotel room card) and then cut it to size. One swipe with a Sharpie later, I have a very durable, extremely stable paper mini.

I also really dig Ashton Sperry's art style.

I bought HeroLab back when I was starting my Pathfinder campaign. As a new GM who hadn't seriously played any tabletop RPG since I was twelve, I found the assistance it provided invaluable. The same goes for the four people in my group, three of whom are brand-new to Pathfinder as well. I use HL to keep track of all of the characters, and it makes it really easy to print out character sheets at the start of the session.

My favorite aspect of it is that it alerts me to rules and guidelines that as a new GM I wouldn't necessarily know.

I have since purchased the add-ons, and regret it not at all.

Name of PC: Helmut AusDenBergen
Class/Level: Human Paladin 3
Adventure: Burnt Offerings
Catalyst: Tangletooth the firepelt
Story: The party of four (half-elf ranger, human rogue, elf wizard, and Mr. Soon-to-Be-Frisky-Vittles paladin) arrived at area C1 outside the briar maze. After a bit of farting around, the ranger discovers the entrance, and both he and the rogue make their way inside to case the joint in as stealthy a fashion as possible.

They manage to check out enough of the maze to hear the goblins whinging in one corner and Tangletooth and Gogmurt's collective yawns and mutterings in another, and make their way back to the entrance where the paladin and wizard await them.

They decide that trying to fight the goblins inside the maze is just dumb. A better idea, they think, is to taunt the goblins into coming out to fight. Not a bad strategy, all things considered. So they array themselves in ready formation around the entrance, weapons drawn, and the ranger calls out a challenge.

The sound of little feet approach rapidly! Unfortunately, instead of a hapless goblin running out into a bunch of readied blades, the heroes are instead shocked at the sight of a leopard-like cat bounding out of the doorway at full speed. The paladin moves to intercept, and is the victim of a pounce-and-bite attack. The other heroes attempt to render aid, and get one or two shots in, but to their added dismay Gogmurt steps out of the maze off to their right and starts blasting them with fireballs. In the ensuing mayhem, Tangletooth *drags* the paladin well back into the briar maze and proceeds to savage him with tooth and claw. As soon as Tangletooth has the paladin inside, Gogmurt steps back into the maze, and emerges in the tunnel next to Tangletooth to help put an end to the silly mailed man. His flame blade proves ready to the purpose.


Of the paladin, that is.

Mitch Brock of Boston wrote:

Finally Finished!!

The troll I am most proud of, the log is a twig, the bush is spainish moss, and the swamp plants are flowers from a weed.

the goblin chief stands on the severed head of a human soldier
(Warhammer Fantasy soldier head)

The goblin archer takes cover by a log (1 inch twig)

Check out the bases:

Awesome! Looks like they are in the middle of a skirmish at Thistletop!

So my PCs just hit the briars outside of Thistletop in Burnt Offerings. I was unable to field a mini for Tangletooth, because I couldn't figure out how to paint her coat.

The best I could figure, she looks like a leopard with tiger markings tending toward a darker orange and black. But I couldn't quite escape the idea that maybe the red in her coat was actually a crimson. I couldn't find a picture of a firepelt anywhere.

So while I had a primed mini of Droogami from the Pathfinder minis line ready to paint(and actually based in red), I bailed on going any further.

Tangletooth was played by a small d6. A ferocious pouncing d6, but a d6 nonetheless.

Anybody know for sure what a firepelt looks like?

Sean K Reynolds wrote:
Here's Hook Mountain Ogre #1, with faded denim clothes and fireman-style suspenders, flesh like a ghoul for my drow game.

AKA Solomon Grundy's Big Brother. The denim is a disturbing touch.

Cpt_kirstov wrote:
these stores are normally happy to let someone else clean the bottom of these bins for them - and the hobbist can get flakes of various color slate and shale flakes. ;)

I can vouch that Pet Depot has a ton of different rocks, gravel, and sand for aquariums/terrariums, in all different sizes. I wish I had known that before I bought some of the stuff I did.

Of course, the best stuff I've found is beach sand from San Luis Obispo. And that was free. Oregon beaches have nice sand, I understand -- I know the guy at Skullcrafts.com sells the latter.

Mitch Brock of Boston wrote:
I really like the blue! I love the gravel on the bases; what did you use for it? They have an awesome subterrian look to them.

I almost hate to admit this, but it's a GW product: it's the small slate from their Citadel Warhammer 40,000 Basing Kit. I needed some bits and bobs for basing, and there's a GW store not 150 yards from my house.

It cost twenty ridiculous dollars for that little kit, but the two small containers of slate (in both small and medium sizes) have been worth it.

I actually put my base into the small slate tub, lift it out and tap it until it's mostly flat, and then use several drops of el cheapo CA glue (the really thin kind) to set it in place. The nice thing about the thin CA glue is that it gets sucked right up by the powdery slate with a nice capillary action.

Wolf Munroe wrote:

She actually has a pit in her back and the wings themselves are pegged with rectangular tabs that fit in the square hole in her back. I don't think I'll need to pin them on just because she's already slotted for them.

Super-glue and/or green stuff after painting is OK though? I mean I'll do detailing and touch-ups after they're attached too, of course. I just wanted to make sure the paint coat under the adhesives wouldn't be a problem for structural integrity of the model.

Yes, actually, you will need to scrape the paint off of the metal surface you intend to glue. I've seen people use poster tack to cover those spots while they paint, and after painting, they just peel the tack off and voila! The spots are ready for gluing.

Mitch Brock of Boston wrote:
blakbuzzrd wrote:
Nice torches! And I see you went with the now-canonical green goblin. Mine were done up in blue.

I don't have the Pathfinder RPG Bestiary yet; are they described as being blue in there? On the cover they look green. I’ve seen only a couple of pics of blue goblins but several more as green so I assumed the blue was the exception not the rule.

I followed the illustration from Pathfinder Chronicles: Classic Monsters Revisited and page 137 of the Core Rule book. Also over at PathfinderWiki the pics “Thistletop bridge fight” and “Goblin fire brigade” show green goblins.

I'd love to see how yours turned out; do you have a link to a picture?

You picked the right color. I went with what I saw in Burnt Offerings (which is where my avatar comes from, incidentally), and since then they've changed it up a bit.

Mine aren't quite finished yet, but click here for a quick pic of the gang.

Abbigail the Glass wrote:
Mitch Brock of Boston wrote:
blakbuzzrd wrote:
Nice torches! And I see you went with the now-canonical green goblin. Mine were done up in blue.

I don't have the Pathfinder RPG Bestiary yet; are they described as being blue in there? On the cover they look green. I’ve seen only a couple of pics of blue goblins but several more as green so I assumed the blue was the exception not the rule.

I followed the illustration from Pathfinder Chronicles: Classic Monsters Revisited and page 137 of the Core Rule book. Also over at PathfinderWiki the pics “Thistletop bridge fight” and “Goblin fire brigade” show green goblins.

I'd love to see how yours turned out; do you have a link to a picture?

Pretty sure his coloring is very similary to pathfinder cannon

Oh, his are. I painted mine based on the art in Burnt Offerings. They are pretty blue there.

Glutton wrote:
My Dm carefully tweaked and painted this and this and I must admit they worked out rather well, conveying the gigantic japanese armored giants from the picture in the core book. As an added bonus he found them in a bargin bin for 10 bucks each.

This is exactly what I planned to do myself.

Of course, my PCs are still smack in the middle of Burnt Offerings, so I have a good long time to settle on the final choices.

Mitch Brock of Boston wrote:

I did a quick paint job of Goblin Pyros & Goblin Warriors yesterday and wanted to share them with you. There are a few more details I want to work on but I would say they are ready for play.

Go to My Goblin Pyros & Goblin Warriors.

Nice torches! And I see you went with the now-canonical green goblin. Mine were done up in blue.

While looking for a suitable Malfeshnekor, I grabbed Reaper's OOP mini #2817, the Moor Hound. If you don't use the integrated base, you will need a 50mm Warmachine-style base.

In other words, the mini takes up 2" on the game table, which on a standard 1" scale means it is most certainly large.

Shoot, I'd just like someone to do a Google Maps hack for a few areas in Varisia (starting with Sandpoint, puhleez? RotRL campaign newly underway). I've seen those done for things like Liberty City in Grand Theft Auto.