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There is a very easy way to make any kind of grid, isometric, hexagonal, square, or otherwise in Photoshop using pattern fills, groups, and blending options. To illustrate, following is a simple way to make a square grid that you can add effects to.
PSD File: Grid Template
- Create a new document and set its dimensions to be the size of the grid you want .
- If the image is not completely white, then fill it with 100% white .
- Make certain you are in Select/Marquee mode , then do a Select All .
- Using the arrow keys, move the selection area one pixel to the right and 1 pixel down, then fill it with 100% black .
- From the Edit menu, select Define Pattern, and name it something like "Grid 50".
- Close that file.
- Open the file in which you want to have your 'fancy' grid.
- Create a new Pattern Fill Layer and name it Grid Pattern.
- The most recently-created pattern should already be selected, but if not, select your grid from the drop-down and click OK.
- From the Layer Palette , right-click on the Grid Pattern layer and choose Properties.
- At the bottom of the Blending Options tab, ensure the Blend If option is set to "Gray".
- Begin drag the left slider for "This Layer" to the right until the black disappears and you have a white grid visible, then click OK.
- From the Layer Palette, create a new Group, name it "Grid" and add your Grid Pattern layer to it.
Now when you wish to adjust how your grid looks, you will go into the Blending Properties for the Grid group rather than that of your Grid Pattern layer. Furthermore, since the grid is created by a fill layer, it will shrink and expand to fit the size of your map if you change the size of the canvas.
Now for some simple effects:
- Want a colored grid? Turn on Color Overlay, set its color to RGB 255,255,0 and you've got a yellow grid.
- Want to improve the contrast? Turn on Stroke, set it's color to brown or black, and adjust the size of the stroke to suit your tastes.
- Need to change the grid size? Create a new pattern by following steps 1-6, then double-click the pattern icon for your Grid Pattern layer and select that new pattern from the drop-down.
Another nice thing about using this technique, rather than relying upon the grid function built-into Photoshop, is that you can have other layers on top of the grid such as your Legend, Title, Compass, etc. You could even add a Layer Mask to the Grid group and then erase portions of the grid if you like.
Enjoy!
Last night I finished my first map done in an isometric style.
It's a handout detailing the floorplan of my player's HQ for the incomming Pathfinder campaign that I'll be DMing in late August, set in Planescape. Party is composed of 6 15th level characters who, after much adventure was had, decided to settle down and create their own business organization, the Brotherhood of the Impossible.
The building itself was an old hotel in Treasure Lane, Market Ward, Sigil, that the PCs were able to buy with the help from a mysterious patron who's interested in their capacities.
I'm giving a lot of freedom to the players with this campaign, and both the organization and what they plan to do with it has been entirely their choice. It'll be a sandbox campaign to the fullest extent of the word (all I asked from them was to create a detailed backstory of how the group got together and what adventures they had prior to the start of this one. They didn't disappoint in the slightest).
Excellent tutorial Laithoron - I've never done them that way before (I fill a normal layer with the pattern). Good tip.
Klaus - those are looking great, I particularly love the iso map. That's awesome.
Sorry for the silence guys, things have been manic. More to come son hopefully. In the meantime - any chance of an ENnie vote for your neighborhood cartographer? I'm up for Lands of Ice and Fire.
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Thanks, Jonathan.
There, vote submited for your work. Which is awesome and deserves to win, in any case.
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Glad you liked the tip, Jonathan. I've applied the grid both ways and find that method a bit more flexible.
And yes, you've got my vote for #1 in the cartography department. Good luck! :)
Very nice topic indeed. Great tips and advices, Jonathan.
I love making maps myself. I'm currently working on a map for one of my homebrewn settings, Flammarion. Since I'm accustomed to drawing maps by hand, this is the first time I go neck-deep into digital cartography, so to be honest I've been improvising and experimenting with all sorts of techniques, throwing stuff at the wall to see what sticks. So there might be inconsistencies and oddities across the map!
This is what I have so far, depicting the Known World:
Full-Size Version of the Area I'm Focusing On
The reason for the oddly-placed graticule is that, on one hand, Flammarion is a flat, disk-shaped world (the whole thing was inspired by the Flammarion Engraving, hence the name) and the map is drawn from the perspective of the locals, who subjectively put the centre of the world on a big metropolis located where the graticule is anchored.
Also, though still not really noticeable, weather patters run roughly horizontally on the map, as the sun (a flaming disk hauled by a charriot of flaming titans) circles the world across the left segment of the map (so the full right of the map is all frozen, while the left is a hot tropical region).
That is breath-takingly beautiful man. Please tell me more about the tools and techniques you are using. Did you use animated brushes for the mountain ranges? How about the rivers? Do you use a pressure sensitive tablet to get the taper, or a vector based software? Or do you just hand-draw everything? Amazing work!
Thank you very much, Grimmy. Much appreciated.
Did you use animated brushes for the mountain ranges?
No brushes. I draw them individually by hand. I first throw red lines across the map to determine the size and shape of mountain ranges so it makes some kind of geographical sense, and then start drawing inverted Vs of various sizes, trying to increase their size towards larger concentrations. Then I draw the shadows by basically making lots of tiny moustaches: Darker lines on the left, lighter ones that don't quite reach the top on the right. Then I finish it off by adding smaller hills on the edges for variety and dotted lines where the ranges end.
It's not the fastest method, but I find it comfortable. Plus, since the quality of my lines is very sloppy, this system helps me disguise the errors a bit and it's very easy to correct if you make a mistake!
I use the Flat Fan High Bristle Count at 1px thickness with a pen-pressure enabled tablet to draw them.
How about the rivers?
For those I use the Round Point Stiff brush at a 6px thickness. I determine where the main course starts and draw it very softly with the pen, slowly adding pressure the closer it gets to the sea. Then I add tributaries using the same method, trying to make sure they never get thicker than the point they are going to meet the main course in. Then I drop the layer opacity to 80%.
Do you use a pressure sensitive tablet to get the taper, or a vector based software? Or do you just hand-draw everything?
Everything is hand drawn, except for the text, coastal waves, and the coloured borders (the borders themselves are hand-drawn, but the coloured edges are added with layer blending options).
I hope it helps!