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A nice, thorough starting guide. Thanks for the link. I like that he covers a lot of options for gear, and gives a good guidelines for table-ready minis. And I love his laminate palette, I'm going to steal that idea.
I am in disagreement with him on one thing: do NOT buy only cheap brushes to start off with, and then move on to nice brushes. I know his POV is that's better to practice with lousy brushes and see how you like the hobby before investing further in it--but it will make it much harder and more frustrating to learn to paint with bad brushes (making you more likely to ditch the hobby). Your main brush should be a good quality one, because it will make it easier to paint from the get go; they will hold the paint well, apply smoothly, and keep their tips. While cheap brushes constantly "shed" and lose their tips instantly, and make it nearly impossible to paint well on such a small object. Then painting minis becomes an object in frustration. Furthermore it is a waste of money because you will have to replace them more often--better to buy one slightly expensive brush that lasts you a long time than several cheap ones that in the end you spend more on to replace.
For starting off, I advise buying ONE good kolinsky sable size 2 round brush (usually found among watercolor brushes). I like for starting off, Windsor and Newton's Artist's Series watercolor brushes (here you can get one for $7 which is a good price. Size 2 rounds may seem too big but because sable keeps its tip so nicely, you will be able to paint even very small details with it, and the size means the paint won't dry out on the brush too fast.
You can get (and should use) cheaper brushes for terrain painting, drybrushing, and basecoating, but for all your main layers/details/highlighting/blending, use a good sable brush.
You can still upgrade from "good" to "best" later on by moving over to Winsor and Newton Series 7s (which are very expensive, the step up from the one I linked to), but start with "good," not "crappy."
(Also in general it is more cost effective to buy brushes from art supply stores, not game stores. The ones sold by game companies are usually overpriced and under quality for what they charge.)
I gave a friend this advice years ago, and he said, "Aw man, but I'm such a crappy painter, I don't want to wreck the nice brushes," and I kept saying to him, "Seriously man, this will make your life easier." He kept being reluctant to, until someone gave him a nice sable set (which should have been me, but wasn't). Then he came back to me and said, "Aw man you were right! Just changing these brushes make me paint 100 times better. I should have listened to you, it would have saved me hours of frustration."
Don't be like my friend Scott, just get good brushes from the start.
(And as for "not wrecking" brushes, just take good care of them--as you should with all your equipment. Wash them thoroughly after use under cold running water and use a little brush soap to clean and preserve them. Then store them upright (brush pointing upward, to preserve the tip) once dry. )
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Here are some beginner mini painting videos I like a lot
MINI BASICS - HOW TO PAINT MINIATURES THE EASY WAY
MINI BASICS - PREP WORK - Mold Lines, Glue & Pinning, Gap Filling
MINI BASICS - BASING YOUR MINIATURES
MINI BASICS - PRIMING REAPER BONES & WIZKIDS MINIATURES
Black Magic Craft is actually a pretty cool channel in general, especially if you like building and painting terrain to use with your games