I am just curious if people will rebase their bones figures or just leave them on the molded bases the figures already have?
I plan to rebase them on more standard black plastic bases...whether I slice'em below their soles or just glue Reaper's broccoli-top base directly to the new base depends on the mini and how it looks onc eI get mine in hand.
I plan on rebasing. :)
I think I'm going to rebase on standard round, black bases.
The big question is where is the best place to get a hundred or so medium round black based?
Dungeon Crawler Miniatures is going to have their bases very soon. They offered a "Vampire" set on their KickStarter even. DungeonCrawler_greyhaze could tell you more as it is his company, but that is one option.
I think I'm going to rebase on standard round, black bases.
The big question is where is the best place to get a hundred or so medium round black based?
My garage! :).
Can't wait for my bones to get here. Fortunately after years of gaming I have more random bits and bases than I can use. When I bought in the past however I have used the bags of bases from the warhammer 40k line.
I think I'm going to rebase on standard round, black bases.
The big question is where is the best place to get a hundred or so medium round black based?
Depends on what kind of "standard" round bases you have in mind.
You can find 100 round "Games Workshop" 25mm bases fairly cheap on eBay.
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I might rebase, or not, depending on whether the figure requires it, and whether it's possible.
Pros:
I've usually stuck metal figures onto plastic bases, to protect the table or gaming surface from being scratched.
Figures that could act as part of a unit get based, so they can rank up.
Top-heavy figures benefit from a base, to lower their centre of gravity.
Cons:
Some figures have a wide-legged stance, that won't fit on the top of a plastic base, without some overhang.
I can find much more productive ways of spending my rare modelling time, than rebasing.
I plan to stick 'em on appropriately sized bases for Pathfinder, broccoli base and all.
Dungeon Crawler Miniatures is going to have their bases very soon. They offered a "Vampire" set on their KickStarter even. DungeonCrawler_greyhaze could tell you more as it is his company, but that is one option.I think I'm going to rebase on standard round, black bases.
The big question is where is the best place to get a hundred or so medium round black based?
Our 1x1 bases are standard 25mm/1" bases for table top gaming. They do have notches in them for our Combat Clips/Counters to attach to. We will make them available in 10 packs once they arrive. ETA is unknown at this time, but we're estimating November or later.
These are the pieces in question from our kickstarter http://www.dungeoncrawler.com/kickstarter_2013/index.html
I' ll rebase every one of them (or at least those I'll manage to paint =), 'cause I think basing is at least as fun as painting.
I consider "rebasing" the process of cutting off the old base and gluing them onto a new one, so no, I will not rebase them.
As needed and desired however, I may glue the entire mini to a standard size base and then cover where the mini attaches to the new base with sand, and then decorate with paint and flock and such as usual. (I would also decorate unbased broccoli bases with sand and flock for a little extra texture as needed as well, if appropriate to the style of the base.)
"Terrained" appropriately (and why would you base something if you're not going to do nice terrain on it?), after doing this you can rarely tell the difference between a glued broccoli-base miniature and a slottabase miniature, save that one might be on "taller" terrain.
It's not great work or photography, but I submit for exhibit A here:
http://www.deathquaker.org/gaming/images/is_party.jpg
Two of these are DHL (broccoli base) minis, two are Warlord (slottabase) minis. This is before flock was glued onto them, which makes any differences even less obvious.
Those are cool, no need to cut the broccoli.
I think I've mentioned these on the board before, but I highly recommend square plastic recessed bases. They're available from thewarstore.com (this product) in the US. They're actually Freebooter bases, so if you're in Europe you're probably better off getting them directly from them (includes a nice picture), what with shipping costs and everything.
Most Bones minis will fit right in there, and then you can add gel pumice or putty or whatnot to fill in the gaps before putting flocking on. I've done it with a number of DHL minis (metal ones), and I was extremely pleased with the results. I'm planning on doing it with quite a few of my Bones as it will make them a good bit more stable.
If you do need to trim the base a bit, that's trivial with Bones (more annoying with metal).
I' ll rebase every one of them (or at least those I'll manage to paint =), 'cause I think basing is at least as fun as painting.
I retract this statement, painted seven Bones so far and didn't rebase any of them =). No time to base, gotta paint 'em fast!
Speaking of re-basing.
We have 8x8 round bases that we are going to print extras of for our Kraken (so the bottom will say "Kraken" and have the icon).
As I understand it I can not list prices here, so if anyone is interested in picking some of these extras up, feel free to PM me. We will accept paypal.
Cheers!
For anyone thinking of rebasing their Bones (or any other miniature for that matter) these might be useful:
Base Stampers: Textured Base Stamps for Miniature Wargaming
For anyone thinking of rebasing their Bones (or any other miniature for that matter) these might be useful:
Base Stampers: Textured Base Stamps for Miniature Wargaming
Those stamps are AWESOME! Thank you for sharing, GG!
I will definitely be re-basing.
The big question is where is the best place to get a hundred or so medium round black based?
I have been quite happy with Litko's bases
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I think I've mentioned these on the board before, but I highly recommend square plastic recessed bases.
Recessed bases are great, for any figure of a sea, swamp or river dweller, as the recess can be filled with clear resin, up to the edge of the lip.
There's a few lizardfolk and Deep Ones in the Bones range, which could benefit from this.
For anyone thinking of rebasing their Bones (or any other miniature for that matter) these might be useful:
Base Stampers: Textured Base Stamps for Miniature Wargaming
Those look really cool. My only concern is they show them using green stuff, which is notoriously sticky. I'd hope they'd provide advice for keeping the stamps unsticky and clean--I'm sure the resin itself is not too stick-ifying but over time it could still get gummed up. Even my metal wax carvers get bits of green stuff stuck to them even though I try to keep them wet or lubricated with petroleum jelly when I am using them to sculpt with.
For anyone thinking of rebasing their Bones (or any other miniature for that matter) these might be useful:
Base Stampers: Textured Base Stamps for Miniature WargamingThose look really cool. My only concern is they show them using green stuff, which is notoriously sticky. I'd hope they'd provide advice for keeping the stamps unsticky and clean--I'm sure the resin itself is not too stick-ifying but over time it could still get gummed up. Even my metal wax carvers get bits of green stuff stuck to them even though I try to keep them wet or lubricated with petroleum jelly when I am using them to sculpt with.
There are other alternatives to green stuff out there. Quite a few people talk about Magic Sculpt, which is both cheaper and comes in larger quantities than green stuff (I haven't tried it, so can't give a personal account of it). Then there are the other sculpting/polymer clays, which have to be baked, though, like Cernit, Sculpey, Fimo etc.
I've also heard that vegetable oil is great for preventing green stuff from sticking to things (you'd have to clean the oil off when it has set, of course).
Whats the story with bases?
most seem to be 25mm, do you need 1" or 28mm? And whats a good source for cheap square bases in 1x1 2x2 3x3? Any ebay offerings?
Shifty, a 1" and a 25 mm base are basically the same thing. And that is what you want for a human-size base, yes.
For cheap square bases, my suggestion has always been to get these math tiles or similar, and just glue together multiples to create larger bases.
Another option is wooden tiles sold for wood craft -- you can often find them at hobby stores like Michael's, Joann Fabrics, etc. Or order them online--I've noticed there are a lot of Etsy stores that now sell stuff like these as well, and yes, also eBay lots. And these you can often find in all the sizes you need if you look hard enough. Compare prices, they can vary widely from cheap to unusually expensive.
Just google "one inch square tile" and similar phrases.
I believe there is some company that also custom-cuts bases for fairly cheap, I am sure another poster on this board remembers the company and can post the link; I don't remember.
Whats the story with bases?
most seem to be 25mm, do you need 1" or 28mm? And whats a good source for cheap square bases in 1x1 2x2 3x3? Any ebay offerings?
DeathQuaker pretty much said it all.
28mm and 25mm figures are the height, but most gaming mats are based off of 1" (25mm) grids. So the size of the bases relates to the space that the figure occupies on the board.
We are offering some bases from our KickStarter if you are interested, you can see them here http://www.dungeoncrawler.com/kickstarter_2013/index.html
Note that the Vampire Bundle is not available, that was for KS backers, and as mentioned above we have a 8x8 single base available as well. All our bases (except Small/20mm) have a pip and slot system for Combat Clips.
If you get 28mm or 30mm round bases they do not fit poorly on a battle map. They overhang a little bit, but it isn't a big deal. Malifaux uses the slightly larger bases, as they allow inserts for scenic bases. They work fine on a battle mat.
Thanks for the tips guys!
And thanks for the explanations as well, much clearer now.
I notice some of the wide stances would overhand the 25mm base, so some of the 28's Cain mentioned might be ok too.
Thanks for the tips guys!
And thanks for the explanations as well, much clearer now.
I notice some of the wide stances would overhand the 25mm base, so some of the 28's Cain mentioned might be ok too.
This is one of the big reasons I use the Litko bases. The edge / corner is not beveled so you end up with a full 25 mm top surface to help accommodate those wide-legged stances. Although I am very partial to round bases, if you were to use square ones and position the figure's feet in the corners, you should likely have no overhang.
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Thanks for the tips guys!
And thanks for the explanations as well, much clearer now.
I notice some of the wide stances would overhand the 25mm base, so some of the 28's Cain mentioned might be ok too.
This is one of the big reasons I use the Litko bases. The edge / corner is not beveled so you end up with a full 25 mm top surface to help accommodate those wide-legged stances. Although I am very partial to round bases, if you were to use square ones and position the figure's feet in the corners, you should likely have no overhang.
Hmmm ... just checked out their site. Am I understanding correctly that these bases are made from either plywood or metal? They don't make the standard, plastic bases that plastic minis usually are on?
Hmmm ... just checked out their site. Am I understanding correctly that these bases are made from either plywood or metal? They don't make the standard, plastic bases that plastic minis usually are on?
They are available in plastic (acrylic)... just sadly their site could be organized better. Click on the Basemaker option on their menu (or click on the link below):
This allows you to specify many options, including color, shape, size, and whether to make it a flight stand. I mainly have just used the 3mm Solid Black Acrylic bases.
Pros / Cons of the Litko Bases:
Con: being acrylic, it has quite a sheen. One a mini is on the base though, the sheen is really not noticeable.
Pro: the base is 3mm thick (same height as Paizo bases) however, this base is solid. This has made securing minis to the base a lot easier for me. With the Bones minis, when I remove the "cauliflower" base, I trim it into a roundish peg under each foot of the mini. I then drill appropriate sized holes in the base. Just plopping the mini on keeps it secured quite well, but once you add some glue around the pegs, the mini is almost guaranteed not to come off.
Here's another interesting kickstarter concerning bases.
They are fairly expensive, but you can get a lot of use and variety out of one or two of them.
Bake Your Own Basius - Base Stamp Pads 4 Wargames Miniatures
These are larger negative moulds where you apply some kind of sculpting clay (greenstuff, brownstuff, Magic Sculpt, Fimo etc.) to your base and the press it into the mould to catch the pattern. Since they are so large you can even produce bases for large and huge creatures.
I hadn't planned on rebasing at first, but now that I see how easily they fall over I will be picking up a package of metal bases.
Thats a very appealing price, particularly for larger pieces. However, on the combat mat I find the extra weight of metal bases to be invaluable. In the first year I was painting I glued pennies to the underside of some of the plastic bases
I built a magnetic carrying case out of a tool box that I bought at Home Depot, so I used black magnetic bases to store my bones. There's absolutely no chance for any of my bones' paint jobs of being ruined because they are magnetically kept in place within my carrying case.
The bases I use are a little expensive, but well worth the hassle of repainting damaged paint jobs over and over again.
I've been gluing mine directly onto 25mm round bases. Any overhang tends to get hidden once I've added sand/flock/static grass.
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Click on the Basemaker option on their menu (or click on the link below):
This allows you to specify many options, including color, shape, size, and whether to make it a flight stand. I mainly have just used the 3mm Solid Black Acrylic bases.
That is an awesome tool.
Has anyone used their magnetic base bottoms or flexi-steel?
How permanent is the glue? Is it repositionable, and is there a chance of pulling a figure of a magnetised base, and leaving the magnet bottom behind?
I bought a pack of Litko's dirt cheap magnetic bases, and they work just fine though they're perhaps a little thin since they're really meant to adhere to the bottom of an existing base. I don't think the lack of height is a big problem, and it actually seems ideal for those of us too lazy to remove the broccoli from our Bones.
Another fringe benefit of the magnetic bases is that their sticky surface allows you to quickly base minis with them on demand. This has worked out great for Mage Knight minis I've popped off their bases. It might even provide an easier way than pins to help secure minis which mount and dismount other minis. I've had a bunch of Medium minis based this way for months at a time, and it has worked out OK. One even did a short stint as a PC.
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I found some silicone molds for making custom cake decor from Wiltons (got it at JoAnnes fabric) and I just roll sculpey clay into the molds, pop them out, cut them to size and bake. They make a sheet about 3/16" thick and way bigger than I need them to be. The pack I picked up had a wood plank pattern and a rough stone pattern.
You can view them here: Stone and Plank molds....$7.99 for both
They also have a Grass and Brick set of molds.
Haven't picked up the second ones yet but I will soon. Nice way to make huge bases, or any size really, but I really like using them for Huge and bigger minis.