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So i made a table a long time ago... a sheet of half inch plywood on a couple of folding sawhorses. It was eventuall reinforced with some 2x4 blocking.
it has the advantages of being, um, almost flat...
it has the disadvantages of breaking kneees or toes, the sawhorses are metal, and unforgiving. it is too heavy to move conveniently, and too light to be really rigid for people bunping it.
it is also exactly 4' x 6', which is a standard game of warhammer, with no setup area. It gets really congested with 4 players and a DM on D&D night.
So I started designing a new table, and I have looked at every table i could find online custom built for the purpose. I have a few unique ideas, which I will post once the discussion gets going, but I wondered what everyone else though would make a gaming table into the ultimate gaming table.
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My thoughts for a gaming table and what I have been dreaming up in my mind is this:
6'X7' table set at normal height, with a 4x4' surface placed 4-6" above the table top. the 4X4 section would be skewed towards one end leaving the DM with more of the lower level exposed for books and charts and stuff. The 4x4 section would be on drawer slides so that the DM can slide the whole top towards him to set up the combats on the top section without trying to stretch across the whole table to reach the surface.
Cup holders for each section and all that hoopla is also there.
FH
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Could you incorporate those cool vacuum tube systems like banks have?!? It's not as technologically advanced as cool texting solutions like this, but it has some intense geek factor!
I would include an eaves trough along the sides of the table (like on many drafting tables) to collect dice. This would be a convenience for both rpgs and miniature games (especially warhammer!)
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Could you incorporate those cool vacuum tube systems like banks have?!? It's not as technologically advanced as cool texting solutions like this, but it has some intense geek factor!
Or I could throw a folded note to the player. Wow! I just saved $500 on a messaging system!
FH
http://www.ultimategamingtable.org/
My Setup The complaints I've had with my setup is that the monitors are a little too high. I'm still looking for a decent setup that can allow the monitors to be moved out of the way (the table doesn't allow for the "arm" monitor stands). I have about 2 inches of clearance that they can be lowered, but moving them would still be a chore.
In a "perfect world", I'd probably get rid of the tables and go with the projector. There have been some convincing arguments justifying the $1000 investment. My concern was the lamp life. I've been told that the timeframe for the lamp life is about 3-4 years, depending on the bulb's hour output.
IMing? Haven't figured that one out yet.
There was a link to the motorola FreeIM doodad, which is handheld AIM off a central server
Yeah, but it kind of takes the "power" out of it. If I created mine today, I would have a multi monitor Linux PC (one 15" monitor, mouse, and keyboard brought into a single PC with lots of video cards) like what they've been doing in developing nations. This would allow for the IMing feature using a Linux program. I'm just not sold on the IM device.
But then, I'm a geek : )
My thoughts for a gaming table and what I have been dreaming up in my mind is this:
6'X7' table set at normal height, with a 4x4' surface placed 4-6" above the table top. the 4X4 section would be skewed towards one end leaving the DM with more of the lower level exposed for books and charts and stuff. The 4x4 section would be on drawer slides so that the DM can slide the whole top towards him to set up the combats on the top section without trying to stretch across the whole table to reach the surface.
Cup holders for each section and all that hoopla is also there.FH
I've done the central table being 6-8" taller with the miniatures being on the taller section. We didn't like it at all. Things get lost under that section and some people find it hard to see the stuff on top. We have determined that a sunken section is better because nothing is hidden and it gives a better vantage point. but hey your mileage may vary.
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Anyway, the discussion is flowing so I will post my concepts:
Big things, 4' x 6' playing surface, with a slight verge. I currently have no verge, and playing edge to edge results in many dropped minis
4 player drawers, these are going to be about 15 x 30 when open, which should give ample space for an open phb. The drawer will hang low enough that it can be closed without dumping things on top. Also the drawer will have a removable plexiglass sheet for wet erase, and a removable hard board base. Beneth the base will be a 2.5 in deep recess, wwhich will be enough for a few player books, or 2 of the Sabol army trays side by side, or even a laptop for the tech savvy
the ends will have pull out side boards, most of 4 feet wide, which will serve the dual purpose of GM space and army pre deployment
another smaller drawer between the player drawers will have 2 cup holders, and a smallish dice bin, lined with the thin drawer lining cork which makes die rolling nigh silent.
the tabletop itself will be finished in light grey paint, probably the left over from my bedroom...
the kicker, I want to set up a system like window shades for pulling out felt/clear vinyl to cover the board. I am thinking black, light brown, and green felt, and blank, 1"hex and 1" square clear vinyl. I intend to lay these out so more than one can be layered, so i can put down the light brown, pull out the square grid, draw in the map elements, than cover it with the plain vinyl for game play
oh, and we made a heap of 8" square tiles that we can block together as wargame terrain, so the edge of the playing field is going to be slightly raised to retain these, about an eighth inch
for secondaries, I am thinking i will proabably put an outlet into each drawer for the laptop people
I also want to make it as modular as possible, or maybe just put some lockink casters on the base and hinge the top for getting it out of the way
thank Bob my dad, the woodworker, retired last month
Anyway, the discussion is flowing so I will post my concepts:
Big things, 4' x 6' playing surface, with a slight verge. I currently have no verge, and playing edge to edge results in many dropped minis
4 player drawers, these are going to be about 15 x 30 when open, which should give ample space for an open phb. The drawer will hang low enough that it can be closed without dumping things on top. Also the drawer will have a removable plexiglass sheet for wet erase, and a removable hard board base. Beneth the base will be a 2.5 in deep recess, wwhich will be enough for a few player books, or 2 of the Sabol army trays side by side, or even a laptop for the tech savvy
the ends will have pull out side boards, most of 4 feet wide, which will serve the dual purpose of GM space and army pre deployment
another smaller drawer between the player drawers will have 2 cup holders, and a smallish dice bin, lined with the thin drawer lining cork which makes die rolling nigh silent.
the tabletop itself will be finished in light grey paint, probably the left over from my bedroom...
the kicker, I want to set up a system like window shades for pulling out felt/clear vinyl to cover the board. I am thinking black, light brown, and green felt, and blank, 1"hex and 1" square clear vinyl. I intend to lay these out so more than one can be layered, so i can put down the light brown, pull out the square grid, draw in the map elements, than cover it with the plain vinyl for game play
oh, and we made a heap of 8" square tiles that we can block together as wargame terrain, so the edge of the playing field is going to be slightly raised to retain these, about an eighth inch
for secondaries, I am thinking i will proabably put an outlet into each drawer for the laptop people
I also want to make it as modular as possible, or maybe just put some lockink casters on the base and hinge the top for getting it out of the way
thank Bob my dad, the woodworker, retired last month
Spend the $15 on the UltimateGamingTable.org. That's most of what you want there.
The felt, use the devices that teachers use in the classroom (you'll need quite a few).
Power outlet, a little more tricky. Power strips should do it, but someone will have to crawl under the table.
Just my opinion.
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Well, some minorly related background:
I am a degreed mechanical engineer, working in solid modeling, and quite good at the design end of things
My dad was an electrical and building inspector for 15 years, after bing an electrician, and occsioonally plumbing or building contractor
we got the skillz
My gaming table currently in a large unfinished basement, consists of a door (salvaged from a job site, never used before, no holes cut in it).
The door is supported on my families plastic storage tubs about 2.5 feet off the ground, lower than a normal table (so all the gamers have a view down on the battlemaps).
At the GM's end, there is a octagonal 48" poker table top (on top of which we use flip mats or tac-tiles). Each player has a TV tray to keep their clutter off the game surface (or at least we did before we grew to 7 players + GM at our weekly game). At the corner where the GM sits is a card table for the GM Screen and all his notes and miniatures.
We have a bookshelf as well, for all the gaming books and whatnot.
There is a fridge in the room as well, for beer & other beverages.
It is a very, use-what-you-have setup. If pictures are needed, I can take some.
-c
My gaming table currently consists of a pool table where we put the Dwarven Forge, battle maps, Tact-tile and miniatures (depending on the situation). At one of the short end I have a small fold up table that is the same with as the pool table that I DM from. Each player has a TV tray for the characters and dice and stuff. There is a gap between player on each side that let you get to the miniatures and maps. We have a small round table off to the side for snack food.
I though about making a table that incorporated all these elements but I don't have room for it and the pool table. I may find a way to build drink holders and dice trays into the side of the TV trays.
Since we're dreaming...
A Surface-like table, that picks up RFID tags in the mini base. The RFID tags are linked back to the game DB, which has the stats for the mini in question, for which you can call up with a quick tap on the table surface. Movement for the minis are lit up on the map, detailing how far a move you can take. Reactive game mapping, allowing the terrain presented to change with the effects of combat (fireball, earthquake, entangle, etc.). A messaging system that sends messages to players on-screen, but hidden so that other players can't see them at an oblique angle.
Etc etc. :)
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I recommend the one on the Drunk Dwarves website for the table. It's 4x8' (although I expanded mine out to 5x10'), with removable tops for customizing.
http://www.drunkdwarves.com/pages/artttgttcultimatetable.html
Unfortunately, the site is currently undergoing a facelift, so the pictures and links are not really set up right. But our group is thrilled with my table. It's huge. We play D&D on it with the Chessex Mondomat, which covers almost the whole area. I run a game with 8 PC's, and it's easily big enough for all of us. Then, for other games, I can switch out the tabletop (once I get the other ones built); for example I am planning a couple of wargames terrain tops, one in 15mm for my Flames of War WW2 game, and another at 28mm for Warhammer Fantasy.
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Since we're dreaming...
Well it wasn't my intent to be dreaming, more my intent to be designing. Looking for the 'hey this table had feature Q and i loved it', or 'that table had feature Z and i never used it'.
I am looking at something a step up or at least side ways from the ultimate gaming table from ultimategamingtable.org. Read their site, i think they hit it out of the park for their design, but still have some extra things I want for mine.
Besides, I could use the extra cash from selling my prints...
I thought about a "modular" table that would take the aspects of the "TV tray" to another dimension.
The best way to explain the "TV Tray" is using this.
You have two of these mirrored on each side and the top part is connected between to have a raised surface. Extend the keyboard area to allow for more room, cut a hole in the surface to allow for a 15" monitor and cover with glass/plexi.
There's no good way to explain it, but that's the general idea.
BTW, these desks are great! They fold up easily and store quite well!
I recommend the one on the Drunk Dwarves website for the table. It's 4x8' (although I expanded mine out to 5x10'), with removable tops for customizing.
http://www.drunkdwarves.com/pages/artttgttcultimatetable.html
Unfortunately, the site is currently undergoing a facelift, so the pictures and links are not really set up right. But our group is thrilled with my table. It's huge. We play D&D on it with the Chessex Mondomat, which covers almost the whole area. I run a game with 8 PC's, and it's easily big enough for all of us. Then, for other games, I can switch out the tabletop (once I get the other ones built); for example I am planning a couple of wargames terrain tops, one in 15mm for my Flames of War WW2 game, and another at 28mm for Warhammer Fantasy.
the problem with that table is that when you want to play d&d you cant scoot up close without causing problems. from what i have read of this discussion he wants to be able to sit at the table without causing leg problems like there has been in the past.. granted i know about those since im familur with the table he is talking about replacing it and have helped move it several times.
the table that was at the link of ultimate table was very nice looking.for some reason i detect a passing of the hat is going to be involved.
the idea of having a tray and or draw to place minis, books etc would help out alot and might come in handy when poeple need to get by .
UltimateGamingTable.org
nice table, but where do I put my 19 inch monitor? I would love that table but with a recessed monitor in front of the GM's seat.
we used to have a 5x5 table with 2 1/2 foot tables at the corners, all sitting a little lower. everything was made out of scrap wood and looked rough, but the arrangement was awesome.
now I use a huge-ass boardroom table at my place of work, and the players and I move it about 4 feet up to a desk with a computer on it, then move it back when we are done.
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If i have my way, there will be laptops for 3 of the 5 people at the table soon anyway, so recessing monitors and such won't be necessary.
And Knighttom is correct, as his knee caps can attest, the metal saw horses are unforgiving and inconvenient.
I will hopefully have some renders of my table design today...
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Friend of mine set up a space for me to share inprocess renders. I gave up applying the wood textures because everything is wood.
It has lost a few wished for features. Specifically, it is non-modular, much too heavy for that. It doesn't have cup holders yet, may be able to squeeze those in. And the side drawers can't be closed with a book on top anymore, but the drawer can hold 5 or 6 books, or 2 or 3 open ones under the writing surface.
Enjoy
Friend of mine set up a space for me to share inprocess renders. I gave up applying the wood textures because everything is wood.
It has lost a few wished for features. Specifically, it is non-modular, much too heavy for that. It doesn't have cup holders yet, may be able to squeeze those in. And the side drawers can't be closed with a book on top anymore, but the drawer can hold 5 or 6 books, or 2 or 3 open ones under the writing surface.
Enjoy
Just some thoughts, maybe it'll give some ideas...
To allow for the books, change the drawer to a "U" shaped drawer. Have a groove in the side walls to allow for a piece of plexi to be pulled over the books.
Bad example:
||=============||
||______________||
Extend the table area to give half as much room than a person needs for the GM end. The extra 1.25 feet (using 2.5 feet for a basis of an individual's place setting) will give plenty of room for a drawer there. The GM could then push the drawer in to reach the table.
Cup holders, use a sliding drawer effect on the bottom of the book drawer.
Bad Example:
______________
|........................|
|........................|
|........................|_
|===========|0|
|____________|
*The periods are there for place holders.
The "=" is a board that runs across the bottom of the drawer, like a pull out cutting board that can be pulled from either side. This will allow for righties and lefties access to their drink. Use a simple "pool pocket" setup to keep the drink in place. The drinks can then be moved under the drawer and stowed away (better for RPGs, but the same concept can be used to the right or left of the drawer).
Modular ability. Look at the dining room tables out there and integrate a "leaf" system. You will need to construct an easy to pull/push system, yet sturdy, that can be adjusted to put in a leaf. The leaf itself can contain the drawers and a mockup of the playing area. It may benefit from a three leg structure with the center leg carrying the weight of multiple leaves (and more stability if the extra space is added for the GM area).
I'm not an architect or a furniture designer, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night...
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Currently the drawers have a plexi panel on top of a hard board panel, on top of storage space. I can't really make the plexi slide because the room really isn't there, so it just lifts out instead.
Cup holder, that is exactly the way I am leaning, but I need to get the pathing stuff done for the cloth pieces, I may have room for a cup holder drawer.
And speaking of cloth path, that is the main reason I can't make the table modular, if I want the integrated table covers, I can't make any pieces come off the top, and if nothing comes off the top, it is too heavy to lift as a single piece...
Looks like a pretty sweet setup. I can't wait to see a pic of this thing once you get it finished.
BTW has anyone tried the eAssembly doohickey (the one that needs a plug in)
I have the source program on my machine, so Iknow it works, but I wanted to make sure otheers can use it.
And yes, I know that it is annoying that all the parts are the same color, I am working on it....
Yeah, it worked for me. Although, because of the monotone colour it was easier to view without shading.
Since we're dreaming...
...
Etc etc. :)
heh I have been working on one like this, but I have to admit it is only in the dreaming stages: table