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Based on the itinerary of the ship that takes PCs from Varisia (or elsewhere) to Sargava at the beginning of the Serpent's Skull Adventure Path, I'd say it's not *quite* so bad as you suggest. The port of Kintargo in Cheliax is fairly open and cosmopolitan, and you can probably avoid harassment in Corentyn for the price of a modest bribe.
From there, ilizmagorti is basically the last port before the long western route around the Eye of Abendego. It's a haven for pirates, so it's hardly safe, but the Red Mantis run the place and they want visitors to be able to come and do business with them, so it seems like its hardly a death sentence to dock there.
Once south of the eye, some sources indicate that a lot of ships try to avoid the Shackles entirely and presumably head directly for Bloodcove or possibly Senghor. However, the ship in Serpent's Skull visits three different ports belonging to the Free Captains unmolested. I figure that the pirates need somebody to sell their booty to, so they probably frown on crews preying on ships within their waters, instead usually making attacks farther to the north and south.
Once you're past the Shackles, it should be relatively smooth sailing further south. Pirates from the Shackles and Bloodcove are a problem, of course, but every sea in Golarion has its hazards, and the ports in the Mwangi Expanse and Sargava are pretty open to anybody with coin, if not what you'd necessarily call "friendly." South of Sargava you've gone off the map, and I don't think there are any known ports capable of servicing oceangoing craft; just local villages of Bekyar and lizardfolk, neither of whom are particularly welcoming of outsiders.
Creative Director
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It's not nearly that bad. Cheliax has diabolists, but it's also a functioning nation that does accept all sorts of visitors. Just as a demon worshiper needs to be quiet and subtle and mellow when visiting a good guy nation, though... the good guys need to be the same when visiting Cheliax. It's hardly a place that immediately attacks anyone who sets foot in the nation without hailing Asmodeus...
Don't try to overthrow the regime or fight the Asmodean Church and nobody will care if you have some religious symbols of some 'weak' gods. Chelish citizens themselves may worship other gods. I don't know if the actual policy being enforced by the Chelish navy over the Eye of Aroden passage has been made clear... 'Paying a fee' doesn't seem like a campaign-breaker.
Once you get past Sargava, there isn't really any details on Southern Garund, I believe there was a Blog Post showing it's geographical shape (albeit 'not guaranteed to be accurate') and there is very sparse info on the general features of the major nations of Southern Garund. I don't see why several of them would not have normal ports, although it sounds plausible that there is a good stretch of coast after Sargava that is just smaller village populated areas (or nutso demonic slavers), but you can always head ashore/up-river in a landing craft to replenish stocks, and eventually you will reach normal ports of the more developed nations of Southern Garund. Letting your campaign go there means you will be making stuff up, since it's hardly detailed at all (although using what is published is a great start).
Best bet, go through the arch over to Absalom, then head south past Nex and Geb. The people on that side seem to be more familiar with what's off the map.
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Don't try to overthrow the regime or fight the Asmodean Church and nobody will care if you have some religious symbols of some 'weak' gods. Chelish citizens themselves may worship other gods. I don't know if the actual policy being enforced by the Chelish navy over the Eye of Aroden passage has been made clear... 'Paying a fee' doesn't seem like a campaign-breaker.
For some player "you must pay a toll to pass" and "you should consign your weapons before seeing the king" are open calls to war. :-)
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I would argue that if the ship hugs the coast, things should not be too bad as most ports will want visitors. The key thing is to act professionally and politely with the local officials. I would suggest stocking up as there is little known about Garund south of Sargava. (Having a cleric who can create food and water, and a druid who can cast goodbery sound like good ideas to me.)