Super glue or 2 part epoxy, the same as for any metal mini.
You'll probably have to touch up the colors after gluing it, but yes, super glue is the best option.
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My brother got a Warhammer big mini of Treant, it was painted years ago by a friend of him which is great at it and won and award.
Some weeks ago mother send the mini to the ground while cleaning the dust, and the mini is now broken.Thanks god the colors are ok, only the glued parts are broken.
Now I have 3 metal pieces (body and two arms) that must be glued with care so the colors don't get ruined.
I have glue for plastic minis, but it doesn't work on metal surfaces unless you wait 24 hours.
So, what kind of glue should I use?
I uses Gorilla Super Glue.
Take a razor knife and cross-hatch (score) both surfaces to provide some extra texture for the glue to grab.Best case scenario, you should pin the pieces prior to glue.
With a Treeman model of any real age, i would strongly advise that you pin it as well as glue. It will almost certainly be neccissary to touch up the paint, and you might need to consider using green stuff, or an equivilant american two part modelling putty to ensure that the models joins up.
I agree with the others about pinning the model. Zombieneighbours gave sound advice using green stuff and touching up the paint job. As for a glue I recommend Instacure for the glue. You can pick it up at most hobby train stores. They also sell excellerates to use in combination for the model to set faster.
Regarding pinning: I agree with the others that for firmness and to ensure the model does not break again, the ideal option is to pin it.
However, pinning WELL (centering the pin, closing any gaps, etc.) takes some patience and practice, let alone the tools (pin vise, drill bits, either brass rod or paper clips, as seen in the link Zombieneighbors provided). Ikedoe if you have never pinned before but you want to try it, I would highly suggest learning to do it first on a DIFFERENT model before doing it on your award winning Warhammer figure. The same goes for filling any gaps with Green Stuff.
As for my 2 cents on glue (which you will need even if you pin), any cyanoacrylate (superglue) will do. Personally I'd suggest Zap-A-Gap mid cure. I've also heard good things about the Gorilla Glue that Azmyth has mentioned.
I suggest applying any glue you use carefully with a toothpick to help ensure you don't get it on the paint.
Balfic-graa, with all due respect, I do NOT think fast cure glues or accelerants are a good idea for this project. He is looking for something that provides sturdiness. It is my understanding that fast-cure glues and especially accelerants sacrifice stability for fast curing time. I have broken models assembled with Zip-Kicker accelerant apart with my bare hands (and I'm just a lil ol' secretary) and seen others do similar with similarly assembled models.
http://www.pro9.co.uk/html/theproshop/images/products/LocTiteSuperGlueGel00 5228.jpg
Loctite gel superglue. It doesn't run, it doesn't leak. Use less than you'd thick you'd have to, a little goes a long way. Apply it in a thin layer near the middle of the breaks, press and hold them there for about 5 minutes. If you get your finger glued to the model don't worry, your skin comes off easily and tends not to stick to the miniature.
If you're not familiar with minis, i would NOT recommend trying to pin an award winning miniature. Superglue is almost as strong as the pewter.