| Wolf Munroe |
I bought a pin vise. I know it's used for attaching miniature limbs and such, drilling holes to pin the stuff in place, but it didn't come with any drill bits or anything. So I'm guessing those are a separate purchase.
I bought the pin vise a a local hardware store. I went in there one day for a different issue and asked while I was there if they had one. The old guy who ran the place said "I used to carry one for years and years but then somebody bought it and I haven't had once since. If you check back in a few weeks, I'll see about getting one in stock." So I checked back in a few weeks and he had one so I bought it.
So what else do I actually need to use it?
Secondly, I've been using green stuff some for attaching limbs and basing miniatures, and I've found it's really messy. I've mostly been handling it with my fingers and an X-acto knife. I've seen various people say dental picks are good for it, and I've seen a few mentions of sculpting tools, but I'm pretty sure it's going to stick to just about whatever tool is used. What's a good method to keep from taking it with the tool that's used to smooth it. About the neatest way I've found to work with it is just to use my fingers, but that leaves fingerprints in the greenstuff and I'd rather not have my fingerprints all over the miniature bases.
So what else do I actually need to use it?
| Wolf Munroe |
Hmm... For the pin vise, I guess I need a set of drill bits like these? http://paizo.com/store/gameAids/tools/armory/v5748btpy7cdi
| Evil Lincoln |
Yeah, you're gonna need a "bit".
Basically, a pin vise works on exactly the same principle as an exacto-knife or model knife handle — you screw it in and it tightens its hold on whatever you've inserted.
You're gonna want to obtain a bit that is close in gauge to whatever wire you are using for your pinning. Then you just unscrew the top, insert the bit, and tighten it back up again till it's nice and secure.
Then the twisting can begin. :)
Mini metal is actually quite soft, so you'll be surprised at how easy it is to drill the holes.
| Sean K Reynolds Contributor |
"Wire gauge" bits are what you need. I think the smallest you can get that isn't WG is 1/16th", and I prefer a smaller gauge (as I use paper clips for pins). 1/32nd" (aka #67, aka .032") works fine, and that is in the WG category.
I picked up a bunch when my hardware store had them in stock, as I needed a bunch for an assembly workshop at PaizoCon. If your store is out, you should be able to find them online...
Or order a 6-pack from Micro-Mark:
http://www.micromark.com/NO-67-DRILL-BITS-PKG-OF-6,6650.html
| Wolf Munroe |
Thanks. Looks like that one I linked in the second post has a #67 bit in it, as well as some others. I have no idea if they're smaller or larger though. Might order that and find out. Worst case, I have some larger bits with no immediate use.
I'll also look into picking up some dental picks for the green stuff. In thinking about them, I can see how they could work for smoothing perhaps... (I know nobody replied to it, but that was my second question. Tools for smoothing it that it doesn't stick to so much.)
| Wolf Munroe |
Also, SKR, want to thank you for the advice you've given that I've used. I LOVE using washers as the bases, which I read you saying somewhere that you did. They're cheap, uniform, easy to get, guaranteed to be available, and come in a variety of sizes, and work with magnetic stuff, and they have a nice heavy feel to them. (The washers I have are almost exactly the size of D&D Minis bases.)
Also the stuff from the Angel of Radiance thread about glues and stuff where I was asking questions. Very useful.
| Hamenopi |
Also, SKR, want to thank you for the advice you've given that I've used. I LOVE using washers as the bases, which I read you saying somewhere that you did. They're cheap, uniform, easy to get, guaranteed to be available, and come in a variety of sizes, and work with magnetic stuff, and they have a nice heavy feel to them. (The washers I have are almost exactly the size of D&D Minis bases.)
Also the stuff from the Angel of Radiance thread about glues and stuff where I was asking questions. Very useful.
I'd be lost without my dremel. It can do everything!
tribeof1
|
You don't need to get fancy with green stuff tools - unfolded paper clips or your knife work, or I've carved my own from popsicle sticks a few times.
Water will help you avoid the sticky (you can also use Vaseline, but it gets a little messy and hard to work with). Keep a small container of water nearby and repeatedly dip your modeling tool in the water while working the greenstuff. Dab a little water on any surfaces you don't want the putty to stick to, as well.
| DeathQuaker RPG Superstar 2015 Top 8 |
Secondly, I've been using green stuff some for attaching limbs and basing miniatures, and I've found it's really messy. I've mostly been handling it with my fingers and an X-acto knife. I've seen various people say dental picks are good for it, and I've seen a few mentions of sculpting tools, but I'm pretty sure it's going to stick to just about whatever tool is used. What's a good method to keep from taking it with the tool that's used to smooth it. About the neatest way I've found to work with it is just to use my fingers, but that leaves fingerprints in the greenstuff and I'd rather not have my fingerprints all over the miniature bases.So what else do I actually need to use it?
I'm late to the party, and tried to answer this already, and Paizo's boards devoured my post and spit it into the Abyss. So, trying again, expanding on what tribeof1 said:
Set up/Tools
1. I suggest laying down some plastic on your workplace. Plastic wrap is okay in a pinch, though something thicker (like a ziploc bag cut open) is better. This way if you put a piece down or work with it on the surface it doesn't pick up the texture of your work place.
2. Fill a shallow cup/bowl with warm water and optionally a tiny drop of dishwashing liquid (this alters the surface tension so the water doesn't pool into big drops on your tools). Also keep to hand a jar of vaseline or a stick of cheap chapstick.
3. You can work with an exacto knife, and a straight pin with a ball on the non-pointy end (use the point for poking holes and drawing thin lines, use the ball for smoothing, careful not to prick yourself). Toothpicks can also be useful. As tribeof1 mentions, you can also make your own out of balsa or popsicle sticks (finish with glue or varnish so they are smooth). And dental tools/wax carvers (same thing by a different name) are available on Amazon for around $5-7. I suggest just getting some of these really but you can make do without.
4. Keep to hand a cloth towel to wipe off excess water or vaseline.
Technique:
1. Dip your fingers in the water. They should be a LITTLE wet, not dripping. This is the first step in keeping your fingers from sticking to the green stuff.
2. Dip your tools in either the water or the vaseline to prevent slipperyness. Use a LITTLE vaseline; too much makes everything slippery and then the greenstuff won't stick to anything.
3. Work in small bits at a time. Layer on a piece, let it cure a little, then layer on more, etc. It's a pain in the butt for being time consuming but it works waaay better. Sometimes it's good to work on a few green stuff projects at once that way you can put something down and go to the next thing.
4. If your greenstuff is still supersticky, add a little more blue (I think) to the mix. Or brownstuff if you have it on hand.
5. As one of your final steps, use a smoothing tool dipped in a little vaseline to carefully rub out fingerprints.
6. Remember you can also carve and file your greenstuff after it cures, so if you want to give something a sharper edge or different texture, you have these options too.
7. If you're still having trouble, wear latex gloves (one one hand at least if you need one uncovered for feeling). Plus it's really fun to go to the grocery store to buy vaseline, latex gloves, and popsicle sticks and have people wonder what the heck you're up to.
| Daniel Moyer |
Set up/Tools
1. I suggest laying down some plastic on your workplace. Plastic wrap is okay in a pinch, though something thicker (like a ziploc bag cut open) is better. This way if you put a piece down or work with it on the surface it doesn't pick up the texture of your work place.
I use wax paper, which you can buy an entire roll of for under $2 usually, sometimes you can even find it in the dolla/thrift stores.
Another good working surface I found, DVD shrink wrap. The annoying plastic wrapper that EVERY DVD comes in, great for painting/gluing on, though I'm not sure how non-stick it is when concerning greenstuff.
Pin Vise, Bits, Bits sizes...
This was the Pin Vise Deathquaker pointed out in another thread, it comes with bit sizes #52 - #74. $21 + $9 shipping.
| Wolf Munroe |
Thanks.
Keep the advice coming!
I still need to pick up some drill bits for the pin vise.
I look forward to showing-off some stuff once I get it done, but weather turned cold and I'm a bit more hesitant to prime (which I do on the porch) in cold weather.
I'm really not working with green stuff very much, mostly just using it for basing on the washers, but still handy information to have available.