Looking for glue that won't ruin my paint.


Miniatures


So, I recently finished painting a mini with my Citadel paints and Testors Dullcote sealer. I decided to go the extra mile with this one by gluing sand and fake grass to its base with gorilla glue.

However, when the glue dried, I found that the mini was ruined. It looked as if the fumes from the glue changed the color of much of the miniature.

I'm going to see if I can salvage this one. However, does anyone know any types of glue that won't have this effect upon paints and sealants?

Liberty's Edge

I've always stuck to plain old Zap-A-Gap and white glue and I've never had any troubles. Also, I've had some luck with rubber cement for texturing and I've never had any paint issues with that.


The ironic thing is that I already have Zap-A-Gap... but used Gorilla Glue because I thought it would be easier to use due to the longer drying time, lol. Thanks, I'll try that one next time.

RPG Superstar 2015 Top 8

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For basing I use plain old white glue (PVA/Elmer's). I've also used superglue (Zap-a-Gap CA+) without issue, but I prefer the white glue for bases because it is a little more forgiving for that kind of thing (as you note, a slower drying time can be helpful so you don't accidentally glue sand or flock to your model's feet).


I have had nothing but unsuccessful attempts with using gorilla glue. I keep reading how great it is, but every time I try to use it, it's a dismal failure.


Rofl, so it seems that I basically used the one type commonly used glue that can cause this sort of problem. Ah well, always learning ;)

Sovereign Court

I use E-6000 for sticking the mini's to my magnetic bases. I get it at Michaels and have never had a problem with it. For basing I use Elmers Clear School Glue and a cheap paintbrush to paint it on.

Scarab Sages Reaper Miniatures

DeathQuaker wrote:
For basing I use plain old white glue (PVA/Elmer's). I've also used superglue (Zap-a-Gap CA+) without issue, but I prefer the white glue for bases because it is a little more forgiving for that kind of thing (as you note, a slower drying time can be helpful so you don't accidentally glue sand or flock to your model's feet).

Most of the pro's that do work for reaper use SuperGlue (Zap-a-Gap or "super Glue" brand) or PVA Glue (Elmer's Glue). PVA Glue stays gooey for most of half an hour, giving you time to adapt and adjust your flocking/foliage/snow/rocks on the base, but dries hard and clear, so it doesn't affect the paintjob.

With regards to using PVA glue for snow, for some reason PVA Glue tends to "grey out" Woodland Scenics snow, so most of the painters I know mix in a drop of white paint to the glue when they add the snow.


Bryan Stiltz wrote:

Most of the pro's that do work for reaper use SuperGlue (Zap-a-Gap or "super Glue" brand) or PVA Glue (Elmer's Glue). PVA Glue stays gooey for most of half an hour, giving you time to adapt and adjust your flocking/foliage/snow/rocks on the base, but dries hard and clear, so it doesn't affect the paintjob.

With regards to using PVA glue for snow, for some reason PVA Glue tends to "grey out" Woodland Scenics snow, so most of the painters I know mix in a drop of white paint to the glue when they add the snow.

Well, if that's what Reaper uses, then those glue types must be safe to use. Thanks for the advice all ;)


I've used white glue (PVA/Elmer's) but since I've become a Future abuser, I just dip the base in Pledge with Future and use the acrylic floor finish as an adhesive since it's tacky while it dries. I've only done it a couple times but it's worked for me so far. I've only used it for doing sand/powder bases, I imagine if I do anything more detailed, I'll use PVA glue.

I got an effect I am actually really happy with by putting PVA glue on too thick once on an undead mini. You know how when you put Elmer's glue on thick it dries kind of whitish? Well, in this instance it worked.

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