RPG Superstar 2013 Top 32
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In one of my customer service posts, Medesha made a post about discussing tips and tricks for miniature painting somewhere on these boards so.... here it is.
I ordered my first ever pewter miniatures from Paizo a few days ago and I expect that they will arrive within a week. I've never painted any minis before and thought that I would turn to the boards for any advice and input people have to offer.
I'm a fairly decent artist in my own right and I believe my hands are steady and up to the task, but I've never worked with this medium before and I wanted to know what paints people recommend (Brand & Colors) to create an effective palatte without buying 200 different colors. I'm hoping to get a lot of diversity out of maybe 6-8 different colors. Also, any hints you can offer for making metal look more metallic, hair to look like hair, and other little tricks of the trade, I would appreciate it. Also, is primer necessary for these miniatures or would I be okay without it? What brush sizes should I purchase? Thanks in advance for the help.
In one of my customer service posts, Medesha made a post about discussing tips and tricks for miniature painting somewhere on these boards so.... here it is.
I ordered my first ever pewter miniatures from Paizo a few days ago and I expect that they will arrive within a week. I've never painted any minis before and thought that I would turn to the boards for any advice and input people have to offer.
I'm a fairly decent artist in my own right and I believe my hands are steady and up to the task, but I've never worked with this medium before and I wanted to know what paints people recommend (Brand & Colors) to create an effective palatte without buying 200 different colors. I'm hoping to get a lot of diversity out of maybe 6-8 different colors. Also, any hints you can offer for making metal look more metallic, hair to look like hair, and other little tricks of the trade, I would appreciate it. Also, is primer necessary for these miniatures or would I be okay without it? What brush sizes should I purchase? Thanks in advance for the help.
Head to a craft store and pick up Apple Barrel paints. They are quite cheap and pretty good for painting minis.
Pick up good brushes too, I think I have a 5/0, 10/0, 18/0 and a few other cheaper brushes for drybrushing.
Google "Magic Wash", and read up on it. You will want to use this, trust me. I can't believe how good it works.
Wash well your miniatures before you paint them. Get all that powder off them. I scrub mine with a toothbrush to be sure to get it all clean. Then I cut and extra metal with an exacto knife, lightly primer and look for more groove marks, exacto again and then final primer.
After primer I put down base colors, which is usually the middle ground shade between the darkest and lightest color I am going to be working with and paint in broad strokes around the areas. I usually work inside outward, so if there is a shirt beneath a cloak I paint the shirt first, then the cloak. Belts, shoes, backpacks, ground and hair are the last things I paint.
After the base colors are down, I use magic wash to wash the darker shades onto the areas.
Lastly, I use the lighter color, and take a bigger brush (usually the 5) and get the brush to the point where there is almost nothing left on the brush, then lightly brush the area with the appropriate color using it as a sort of highlight.
After all the painting is done I seal with a flat sealer (usually two coats) to prevent chipping of the paint job.
edit: one last thing, before sealing the very last thing I really do is paint with metallic paints. I do this because they tend to fleck off little metal flakes while painting.
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RPG Superstar 2013 Top 32
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Wow, thanks for the info, Festivus! Sounds like you've been doing this for awhile. What kind of primer do you use? Is it just a flat white primer like most paints? Does Apple Barrel make the primer and flat sealer as well? Also, do these paints mix well to create other colors or would I need to buy separate paints for dark brown and light brown?
Lastly, I use the lighter color, and take a bigger brush (usually the 5) and get the brush to the point where there is almost nothing left on the brush, then lightly brush the area with the appropriate color using it as a sort of highlight.
I do this same thing but use the 'dry brush' method whereby I put the paint on the brush normally, then wipe the brush against a paper towel until all the water and most of the paint has been removed (almost the same thing you do, really). Then, grading from dark background to highlight in the same family of color, you can just whisk your brush back and forth and only the lightest dusting is left behind. For example, a leather cloak: dark brown background... second light coat of slightly lighter brown... highlight with a light brown. This mixture of shades gives the cloak a depth of color.
I also love putting together the old lead dragons and using a two part epoxy filler in the joints. This gives me a chance to use carving tools and mimic the sculptor's original textures to get the thing seamless.
What primer color you use will likely depend on what colors your final mini will be. If your mini will be a lot of light colors, go with white. If a lot of dark, go black.
Or you could use a neutral grey.
What primer color you use will likely depend on what colors your final mini will be. If your mini will be a lot of light colors, go with white. If a lot of dark, go black.
Or you could use a neutral grey.
I've used all three and like them all for different reasons. My favorite, at this point, is probably painting over black. I've also two toned with different colors of primer for different parts of the same mini. All black body primer but white on the oversized eyes can really cause them to pop quite monstrously once its finished.
Krylon white ... primer of champions
Change your brush water often. Have 2 vessels for brushes too. One for first rinse and one more for a second rinse (it's cleaner).
Use differnt water when (and if) you use metallic paints. The glittery stuff loves to stay in water and mix with none metallic stuff - like when you want to paint the pants green. The glitter really screws that stuff up.
Use acrylic paints of course. The water based stuff. It all pretty much mixes up well. I use Reaper paints and slowly shifting to Vallejo. Costing me some cash though.
Buy extra brushes.
Light is important. I try to have 2 to 3 sources to decreae shadow. I use overhead, light from a window (sunlight) and a 100 watt bulb in a desk lamp. I'm old though, my eyes are going.
I assume you are painting your Iron Kingdoms minis (from a differnt thread)?? Those minis have some detail and are 30mm so the above posted advice on shadow/dry brushing/washing is extremely important for those minis.
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RPG Superstar 2013 Top 32
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You are correct, Carnivore, the Iron Kingdoms miniatures are the ones I will be painting. I really appreciate everyone's input on this matter and I hope that I can get these minis to look the way I intend them to. I bought the minis specifically to represent the PCs in my IK game starting this weekend and so my players will be having some input on what THEIR characters look like, but I'll be the one doing the work since they are self-admitted failures at any kind of artistic expression.
A DM who hosts the game at his house, runs the game, AND paints your mini for you... man, these guys got lucky. ;)
Use differnt water when (and if) you use metallic paints. The glittery stuff loves to stay in water and mix with none metallic stuff - like when you want to paint the pants green. The glitter really screws that stuff up.
Excellent advice, Carnivore.
...Light is important. I try to have 2 to 3 sources to decreae shadow. I use overhead, light from a window (sunlight) and a 100 watt bulb in a desk lamp. I'm old though, my eyes are going.
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Lighting is critical when painting. I'd advise anyone who seriously wants good results, to invest in some daylight simulation bulbs instead of the standard bulbs. The benefit of using daylight simulation bulbs is that no matter what natural lighting conditions one works in, day or night, your painting will be consitent. Using ordinary bulbs gives an inferior paint job; it may look great whilst one is painting but when the the figure is viewed or used under normal lighting conditions, it looks muddy and dull. By working under extreme and intense lighting conditions your figure will look very vivid and attractive to look at.
My preference is to use very strong colours at the lighter end which can make a figure look "electrifying", especially when using daylight simulation bulbs.
Investing in these special bulbs is worth every penny.
Just a small tip.
