Game Mat Suggestions?


3.5/d20/OGL


Hi!

So, I'm looking to DM my first adventure in the not too distant future (I'm debating a couple lovely low-levellers from the pages of Dungeon) and I was curious as to what more experienced DM's would recommend in terms of a gaming mat. I plan on using it more for combat then step by step Dungeon exploration, though I could see myself going that way eventually.

So I guess I'm looking for a good mat, that is versatile in it's applications for gaming, and will fit on an average dining room table.

Thanks in advance!


I think probably the first thing you want to ask yourself is

WET OR DRY ERASE

I hate wet erase myself but i find most of the decent mats are wet erase. I used a Dry Erase board for a while (you can use a permanite marker to get the grid on if you want) which are usable ( get some magnetics to work with it and it saves your kitchen table as it stands upright which is nice)

Myself having lost the Dry Board in the Move to my new home , used grid paper (1' ssquares for mini goodness) and packing tape and a backing (bristol board is fine i have some chip board i used) and tapes that sucker up , for the low low cost of 2.25 and some time and frustration

That said just in Paizo's gaming aid section are the Chessex style Wet Erase Maps , The're nice but i dislike the wet erase so...

http://paizo.com/store/gameAids/gamingMats/chessex/battlemats/v5748btpy74i7

hope that helps

Logos


PayToFlay wrote:

Hi!

So, I'm looking to DM my first adventure in the not too distant future (I'm debating a couple lovely low-levellers from the pages of Dungeon) and I was curious as to what more experienced DM's would recommend in terms of a gaming mat. I plan on using it more for combat then step by step Dungeon exploration, though I could see myself going that way eventually.

So I guess I'm looking for a good mat, that is versatile in it's applications for gaming, and will fit on an average dining room table.

Thanks in advance!

One of the cheapest, easiest things I've found is math graph paper, in a large poster size - about 24"x36". If you need larger sizes, you could tape several pieces together.You can get it from many teacher supply stores and sites. It comes in a variety of grid sizes, 1" squares being one of them. It's very inexpensive, you can get a large pad of it, and you can laminate the pages and draw on them with dry erase markers. It's not fancy, and you have to draw all your stuff on it, but it is an inexpensive alternative to the $20-$40 mats I've seen out there, and it accomplishes the same effect.

You could even draw your terrain/setting, and THEN laminate it. You could have a whole library of maps ready to go at a moment's notice.

Try these:
http://classroomprdcts.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/55/products_id/96 6

http://classroomprdcts.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/55/products_id/97 0

Those are the rolls... with a little searching you could probably find pads.

As I said, it's cheap. I discovered this walking down the math hallway at the school where I teach and sponsor a gaming club. I got a few pieces for the kids, laminated them... poof, instant battle mats.

Did I meantion it's cheap? :-)


You can also get large desk notepads that are gridded (about the size of a desk calendar), but they don't come in 1-inch squares to my knowledge.

Scarab Sages

One of the guys in our group rigged a projector fro the ceiling and projected the (properly scaled to minis) map down onto a whiteboard. It was pretty cool. He even had the parts of the map we hadn't explored yet blacked out, and would uncover them as we moved along.


I've used both Chessex and Crystal Caste gaming mats for a number of years. The Chessex ones erased with slightly more ease then the Crystal Caste maps did. Although I liked the look of the Crystal Caste ones better.
For dry erase, which is what I currently use, I use tact-tiles. They're an interlocking tile based grid that can be found here:
http://www.bc-products.net/
I have to say I very much prefer dry erase over wet erase and these tiles make it easy to draw whatever you need.


Dravick wrote:

I've used both Chessex and Crystal Caste gaming mats for a number of years. The Chessex ones erased with slightly more ease then the Crystal Caste maps did. Although I liked the look of the Crystal Caste ones better.

For dry erase, which is what I currently use, I use tact-tiles. They're an interlocking tile based grid that can be found here:
http://www.bc-products.net/
I have to say I very much prefer dry erase over wet erase and these tiles make it easy to draw whatever you need.

I've seen those tiles in action, and was almost swayed to make the purchase when... SOLD OUT! greets me at the ordering page.

Thanks for all the great suggestions, though. I will definately investigate some oversized graph paper goodness.


Dravick wrote:

For dry erase, which is what I currently use, I use tact-tiles. They're an interlocking tile based grid that can be found here:

http://www.bc-products.net/
I have to say I very much prefer dry erase over wet erase and these tiles make it easy to draw whatever you need.

Indeed, we use Tact-tiles, and they're a dream to work with -- small battle? Use one. Big area? Use four? Oblong? You can use two, they don't need to be square. I use single tiles to keep track of initiative, hit points, use of abilities, and the like, while the cleric of the group writes her prepared spells on another one. Makes the character sheet last a whole lot longer.


The White Toymaker wrote:


Indeed, we use Tact-tiles, and they're a dream to work with -- small battle? Use one. Big area? Use four? Oblong? You can use two, they don't need to be square. I use single tiles to keep track of initiative, hit points, use of abilities, and the like, while the cleric of the group writes her prepared spells on another one. Makes the character sheet last a whole lot longer.

My players and the players of the games I play in have taken to recording HP, spell durations, and the like on the edges of the tiles as well. Very useful for that. I also use them to draw quick mini maps for my players to help discribe a room or other location.

PayToFlay wrote:


I've seen those tiles in action, and was almost swayed to make the purchase when... SOLD OUT! greets me at the ordering page.

Thanks for all the great suggestions, though. I will definately investigate some oversized graph paper goodness.

That is indeed a tragedy. And they just came out with new versions of the tiles too with lighter lines. I hope they're able to resolve the problems they're having soon. Not that I need more tiles. It's just that no one should be deprived of getting such a nice product. ^_^


Lilith wrote:
You can also get large desk notepads that are gridded (about the size of a desk calendar), but they don't come in 1-inch squares to my knowledge.

Yes they do...check Staples. I just picked up two for a different application.

Personally, I don't like the grid. I would love to move totally away from the grid. We use the Hirst Arts molds to create walls and features of places. ([url=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/urlIMG]). They aren;t as quick and easy to use as a dry erase mat, but we think they add a great 3rd dimension.


Chris Manos wrote:


Yes they do...check Staples. I just picked up two for a different application.

I've got the gridded notepad at work for working out web page layouts, flowcharts, all that good stuff. Nobody ever checks the last page, where I keep dungeon layout ideas at. :)


Chris Manos wrote:
Personally, I don't like the grid. I would love to move totally away from the grid. We use the Hirst Arts molds to create walls and features of places.

If you've already got your scenery, sounds like the only thing you really need to abolish the grid is a length of string with inches marked off (or equivalent). Standard human could move up to six marks on the string, with halflings moving four, human barbarians eight, and so on. Even with the grid, when we're looking at screwy angles for a charge or something we'll occasionally just grab a pen (or something) and figure out how long it is as a unit of measure, rather than counting squares. I'd imagine that the string would also be handy for spells, as well, if you don't have the patience/opportunity to make "Spell Templates" that you throw down on the mat to show exactly what squares are affected by area spells. (I'm lazy, and just eyeball it and say "you, you, you, not you, you... all of you except for not you, make reflex saves.")


Flipmats are the best, especially after ruining two Chessex mats with permanent marker accidentally (not that I would be so dumb as to do that :)

I have two flipmats and just ordered a third. For $9 a piece you can't go wrong. I'd like to move away from a grid altogether as well, just haven't figured out a good way to do it yet.

I use two during the regular game and plan to use the third to "pre-draw" certain encounter locations so I can just unfold it during the game and go....I love them.


If you are doing outdoors encoutners where archers may be involved or flying creatures...you might want to use a cardboard sowing mat that they sell at Wal*Mart. they are 4ft x 8ft in sizes, although you can not write on them.


I'll second flipmats. Just got the forest path one myself (and some other goodies from Steel Sqwire). Haven't used the flipmat yet but have tested it with all my felt tip markers (wet, dry and Sharpie) and they all clean off.

I use a vinyl mat (wet erase - Crystal Caste) as a general table mat and have set-ups for major encounters using Dwarven Forge stuff.


I just got a set of tact-tiles this spring and have found them very useful. The ability to pick up tiles and shift them to create a battlefield that moves with the PCs is especially helpful, as is the ability to create a field of the desired size and configuration. And they're great for creating a fog of war effect--just wipe out the parts of the dungeon or maze that the PCs can't see anymore, and draw in the parts that become visible as they advance.

And having the grid makes it quick to draw the layout on the tiles, even if you don't use it to govern tactical movement or ranges and shapes of spells.


I'll add my praise of Tact-Tiles here. I've been using them for about a year and a half now and I love them. I also have a huge cardstock grid that has been laminated and a big piece of dry erase board. Those last two don't see much use since I got the Tact-Tiles, although I did have a map of Cauldron on the dry erase board for a long time.

M@


The White Toymaker wrote:
If you've already got your scenery, sounds like the only thing you really need to abolish the grid is a length of string with inches marked off (or equivalent).

Yep, pretty much. I'm a veteran of Strategic Wargames, so I am used to using a measuring tape to move and check range after declaring targets. Another gamer in our group just picked up the Squire Wire templates, but they are made for the grid. I'm sure they can be used, with a little application, for a non grid setting. It's either that or get some plexiglass and go play with the power tools in the garage.


This Treasure Tables thread has a lot of useful discussion about battlemats and tactiles. I've become a fan of tactiles-- they've been useful since we started using them.

Paizo Employee Director of Game Development

For about $12-16 Home Depot has sheets of 8'x4' 'shower' panels. Those things are essentially dry erase boards with the 'cheap' template added. If you draw your grid on with a sharpie it will eventually wear off (as dry erase markers are the best thing for removing permanent marker from a dry erase board), but a nice trick is to use super thin plastic tape - think pin stripes on cars.

Some more costly modifications can add to it's versatility. We cut the big 8'x4' piece in quarters and put small flush hinges on the underside so it can be folded up. The projector idea is something we came up with, but have not implemented it yet.


I went to a local homewares store and bought a couple of meters of vinyl(approx AU$12 per meter), used a fine permanent marker to do the 1" grid. So now I have a battlemat that nearly covers my gaming table. (Hint: get a light colour) :)


I pick up large pads (like you'd put on an easel for a meeting) from my local office supply place -- they come in 1-inch graph ruled versions. I use markers (often of different colors) to map the dungeon as they go.

Not only can I put as many end-to-end as I might need (no dungeon is ever too big), but I can go back to any sheet(s) of paper as I need to.

They're not too cheap, but no more expensive than some less useful game supplements we buy.

Jack


I used to have a wet-erase 20*20 Battlemat from Chessex. I ended putting some velleda film on it to avoid wet sponges with funny colours on the game table. It's messy and it is not really reliable in my experience. And you have to use special wet-erase pens...

Then I bought two flip-mats from Steelsquire.com. You can fold them so they don't take place at all (smaller than a game book, easy to transport). They are double-sided with squares and hexes (I usually draw a regional map on the hex side and the tactical map on the squares). You can use any kind of pen you want (dry, wet...) without risking to damage your mat. And it cost only $10 apiece. With one mat you have a 22*28 squares surface. I love them :))

Hope this helps

Bran.


Pathfinder Maps Subscriber; Pathfinder Roleplaying Game Superscriber

Home Depot has plastic panels that are used to cover lights (in hanging ceilings), about the same size as a coffee table, with various patterns/appearances. One of the options has an almost perfect 1 inch grid.

Currently, I get clear sleeves (the kind you put posters into) and slide map grids into them. The map grids I use are the ones they used to give out for D&D minis before they switched to picture-posters for that, but I'm pretty sure there are other poster-sized grids available. These poster sleeves are really good because you can also put poster maps from Dungeon into them, and keep them protected. Just put them in very slowly so you don't catch and rip the edges of your posters.

Both of these solutions are wet-erase.

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