Lots of stretch goals already met, including Baba Yaga's hut, docks and water tiles, and dockside buildings.
I'm digging 3d cardstock terrain - I made up some cardstock boats for PFS sessions because 'Hey! 3d boats!' and then I got a hot glue gun for Christmas - now I look at this kickstarter and think 'challenge accepted!'
It's a little dated, but a couple years ago I managed to fill up a cubicle with cardstock models.
I never thought I'd enjoy cardstock modelling, but I was wrong.
OK that is awesome :)
I've been doing up the graphics in paint/gimp and printing on A3/A4, gluing said images onto cardboard and cutting to size - are you printing straight to card? Isn't it a bit - flimsy and flex oddly? I could throw some of my stuff across a room and it would be ok - stiff cardboard held together with hot glue...
I just want to make sure whatever I make is robust and can easily deal with transport and getting dinged about.
There are two ways I do the construction.
The first way is simply build the piece as is, printing to cardstock. The pieces aren't super-hugs, so while they do flex, they tend to hold up pretty well. They're not capable of holding up a dragon miniature if you place one on top, but normal wear and tear doesn't seem to bother it too much.
I use Scotch-brand "Tacky Glue", which is about $7/bottle, but meant for paper crafting and scrap-booking. The low moisture content means the cardstock isn't weakened by the water. Normal Elmer's glue won't give the same effect.
Now, I also like my terrain to have some heft, so on a bunch of those pieces I actually back the model with foam-core. Measuring the walls and base, cut out rectangles of the stuff, and glue it inside. Those pieces are pretty much indestructible, and don't shift around as much during play. That's closer to what you do (although I build the model as-is). The most important piece I've found is creating an interior base of foam-core. That will limit flexing while also giving the base a little more weight.
The current stuff Fat Dragon is doing is "fold-flat," so I don't back it with foam-core. The pieces are flexier (Hey, I invented a new word!), but still seem to be okay for my use. It also means balconies and dormers are a removable, so I can create a chaotic neighborhood a little easier.
Thanks for the info. I am still trying to tinker with striking the best balances and most effective way to do things.
My next challenge is building the 3d map of the runewell from PFS 3/26 Portal of the Sacred Rune - which is horribly confusing as a 2d overhead. Should be a pretty large undertaking with layers descending from 30" and spiraling down - for something I will use precisely once :p