|
There's a list of flipmaps used in each scenario, maybe someone could link it to give you an idea.
I personally find the following maps generic and have been used in several circumstances:
1) Ship: It's out of print, but one of the best. If you can't get it, use the Pirate Ship.
2) Forest
3) Swamp
4) Waterfront Tavern
5) Village Square
6) City Streets
7) Warehouse
I'm sure Deep Forest, Urban Tavern, and Town Square will also be popular in the coming months.
There are a lot of great flip maps. I'm not a fan of map packs though.
|
|
| 2 people marked this as a favorite. |
As a group, we're fortunate enough to own a copy of most of the flip mats, but we often run duplicates of a scenario at any one game day. As a result, I've learned that it's not always the frequency with which a flip mat is used but the difficulty in drawing it by hand. As a result, I strongly recommend getting your hands on Ship, Waterfront Tavern, and Darklands. These are used with some frequency but are a pain to draw by hand.
I would also recommend the City Streets and Arena flip mats. The former is used quite often, and the latter shows up in several Specials (when you don't want to waste time drawing a map). If you still have some money to burn, Mountain Pass is another one that sees frequent use.
Venture-Captain, Missouri—Cape Girardeau
|
| 10 people marked this as a favorite. |
On of the other GMs created this XL spread sheet HERE that lists flip-maps and frequency of use.
Owner - Enchanted Grounds, President/Owner - Enchanted Grounds
|
I think Jason S. has them spot-on. And Arnim Thayer's link is perfect, if you're looking for frequency of use in PFS.
If you're thinking of crossover use, the wilderness ones are the ones you want. Putting together wilderness encounter maps is always a pain in the ass, and having the forest, woods, swamp, river crossing, pirate island, desert, mountain pass, and the reverse side of keep (it's a blank hillside) has saved me more time and effort in my home games than I can possibly count.
Notice, by the way, that we're all talking about flip-mats, for the most part. The map-packs are nice, but not nearly as versatile for some reason. You'd think they would be, as they are smaller and more modular, but the reverse is true, strangely; they're harder to make regular use of.
|
|
The map-packs are nice, but not nearly as versatile for some reason. You'd think they would be, as they are smaller and more modular, but the reverse is true, strangely; they're harder to make regular use of.
Personally I think the mappacks are very situational based for usage ... and the multiple cards make them kind of a pain; although for one scenario I was going to be using pretty much almost all of the Ruins mappack ... I ended up laminating parts together reducing my "cards" from 12 to 6, it hasn't changed how I've used them sense, the layout is such that there is really only one way the whole things goes together ... so it's been handier to use, and they store with my flipmaps now
|
Owner - Enchanted Grounds, President/Owner - Enchanted Grounds
|
The map-packs are nice, but not nearly as versatile for some reason. You'd think they would be, as they are smaller and more modular, but the reverse is true, strangely; they're harder to make regular use of.Personally I think the mappacks are very situational based for usage ... and the multiple cards make them kind of a pain; although for one scenario I was going to be using pretty much almost all of the Ruins mappack ... I ended up laminating parts together reducing my "cards" from 12 to 6, it hasn't changed how I've used them sense, the layout is such that there is really only one way the whole things goes together ... so it's been handier to use, and they store with my flipmaps now
Yeah, I can definitely see laminating certain ones together and making more permanent maps with them. The Ruins is high on that list of contenders, as is the townhouse in Towns, each of the inns in Inns, the Ancient Forest...things like that. I've often thought about this. Hauling them out and putting them together is one of the biggest contributors toward the map-packs' inconvenience.
|
|
Yeah, I can definitely see laminating certain ones together and making more permanent maps with them. The Ruins is high on that list of contenders, as is the townhouse in Towns, each of the inns in Inns, the Ancient Forest...things like that. I've often thought about this. Hauling them out and putting them together is one of the biggest contributors toward the map-packs' inconvenience.The map-packs are nice, but not nearly as versatile for some reason. You'd think they would be, as they are smaller and more modular, but the reverse is true, strangely; they're harder to make regular use of.Personally I think the mappacks are very situational based for usage ... and the multiple cards make them kind of a pain; although for one scenario I was going to be using pretty much almost all of the Ruins mappack ... I ended up laminating parts together reducing my "cards" from 12 to 6, it hasn't changed how I've used them sense, the layout is such that there is really only one way the whole things goes together ... so it's been handier to use, and they store with my flipmaps now
exactly .. since they are the size of the flipmaps .. I can easily transport them like the flipmaps in a multi-file folder and since the number of them is reduced they aren't that bulky
I went online and searched for self-laminating sheets .. I think they were 13 or 15$ with shipping for printer paper size sheets of laminating pages
|
|
wow...
for the mappacks I just use clear packaging table on the back where the join... that way I can fold them up like game boards and store them in a zip lock all together. Unfolding and putting them down is easy... I find the Inn pack the best of the group so far (I like the Ship one, which I use in a home game...each deck fan-folds out to be a sheet for me)
I hadn't thought of that, but that is a really good idea on storage and use of them as well ... I might do that with the ones I print out on cardstock.
|
|
I just need to come up with a better way of filing them, to speed finding the one I need. Or run less games cold...I hadn't thought of that, but that is a really good idea on storage and use of them as well ... I might do that with the ones I print out on cardstock.wow...
for the mappacks I just use clear packaging table on the back where the join... that way I can fold them up like game boards and store them in a zip lock all together. Unfolding and putting them down is easy... I find the Inn pack the best of the group so far (I like the Ship one, which I use in a home game...each deck fan-folds out to be a sheet for me)
find large envelopes .. these are what I use
they are just the right size and are able to close if you need them to
|
I just need to come up with a better way of filing them, to speed finding the one I need. Or run less games cold...I hadn't thought of that, but that is a really good idea on storage and use of them as well ... I might do that with the ones I print out on cardstock.wow...
for the mappacks I just use clear packaging table on the back where the join... that way I can fold them up like game boards and store them in a zip lock all together. Unfolding and putting them down is easy... I find the Inn pack the best of the group so far (I like the Ship one, which I use in a home game...each deck fan-folds out to be a sheet for me)find large envelopes .. these are what I use
they are just the right size and are able to close if you need them to
At OfficeMax I stumbled across "mini binders" and clear plastic sleeves that had three holes for storage in said binders. I can fit one whole map pack into a sleeve, and I can fit 4-6 map packs into a binder.
I currently have three binders:
1 - Urban: Temples, Inns, Fortress, Sewers
2 - Wild: Caravan, Boats & Ships, Campsites, Extradimensional Spaces
3 - Dark: Dungeon Sites, Dungeon Chambers, Lairs, Swallowed Whole
When I know what kind of a game I'm running I can just grab the appropriate binder to take with me that day.
|
|
I've made decent use of some of the map packs. Sometimes I'll explicitly design encounters to work with pieces of it. However, like the others in this thread, I've also probably gotten more use out of flip maps than map packs.
I was running a Kingmaker game that got through the third book, so unsurprisingly I found the Deep Forest flip map my most useful one. However, I also got a lot of use out of the Ancient Forest Map Pack, and sometimes would tile those next to the flip map.
|
|
I've learned that it's not always the frequency with which a flip mat is used but the difficulty in drawing it by hand. As a result, I strongly recommend getting your hands on Ship, Waterfront Tavern, and Darklands. These are used with some frequency but are a pain to draw by hand.
For those just reading this now in 2014, go back and read this post (quoted here for convenience and reference).
I personally think a Chessex mat is far more worthwhile than most pre-printed maps. Check their site for "factory seconds", or see what they offer at their booths at conventions. You can pick them up for a good deal with minor flaws. I have two and use them a LOT. Only problem is I have to redraw the Darklands every time I come across it...
Last point is on that same track of thought. OfficeMax/Depot often has large pads of paper, 27x34" with 1" grids on it. They can be a little pricey ($30+ per pad), but it is well worth it if you want to draw more complex maps* and save them for later.
* Darklands, Theatre, Inn, etc.
...
Last point is on that same track of thought. OfficeMax/Depot often has large pads of paper, 27x34" with 1" grids on it. They can be a little pricey ($30+ per pad), but it is well worth it if you want to draw more complex maps* and save them for later. ...
I especially intend to do this for the common repeatable scenarios like We Be Goblins, Confirmation, etc... that we get asked to run fairly often.
|
|
Those sheets of plastic are wonderful to have, though a little cumbersome for convention play, I have realized. One gent I've seen laminates his maps for the same protection and writeability, though it does not help them lay flat if rolled. Also, heaven forbid someone accidentally use a permanent marker on it...
|
|
| 1 person marked this as a favorite. |
Here's what I do for custom PFS maps (I.E. non-flipmats/non-mappacks)
1) Right-click on the image in the PFS scenario and select "copy"
2) Go to your favorite image editor and select "paste" (I personally use a 90's version of Photoshop that I have a legit key for)
3) Adjust the size of the image until the squares are exactly 1" - If you crop away the partial squares on all edges, you should be able to just make the image exactly the size you need in inches
4) Save that as something Windows Paint can open, .jpg, .png, whatever
5) Open Windows Paint and then open your new image. Under the file menu, go to "print --> page setup" and make sure you select under Scaling "Adjust to: 100%"
It should print just fine now, If it's an adventure that I think I'll DM more than once, I personally use one of those large paper cutters to carefully remove the margins and then paste it on posterboard.
|
|
or print on cardstock, leaving an edge to hole-punch and drop in the binder with the scenario. I did this for the maps for First Steps - the Warehouse is two cardstock 8X11 sheets taped together so they fold on the tape crease and hole-punched on one side. The allyway and the Para-Countesses rooms etc. the same.
That's a fantastic idea for the smaller maps, thanks!
I was talking about some of the large maps, like for the final battle in Confirmation
|
| 1 person marked this as a favorite. |
Hey, I'm going to be dming my first pfs game and while reading through the scenario noticed that most of the maps used are actually able to purchase and was wondering if there were some that were widely used that I could purchase.
I can't believe no one said the Basic flipmap. It allows you to draw anything.
|
|
I can't believe no one said the Basic flipmap. It allows you to draw anything.
I personally think a Chessex mat is far more worthwhile than most pre-printed maps. Check their site for "factory seconds", or see what they offer at their booths at conventions. You can pick them up for a good deal with minor flaws. I have two and use them a LOT. Only problem is I have to redraw the Darklands every time I come across it...
Close enough?
|
|
I've seen maps like that before, but I don't have access to a device that can print on paper that size at home. Can you get a copy shop to print them for you?That's a fantastic idea for the smaller maps, thanks!
I was talking about some of the large maps, like for the final battle in Confirmation
You can. The trouble is the cost. It costs just about as much to get a large-format print job done as it is to just buy the map. This, however, may be a very good avenue to tread in regards to discontinued maps such as the Darklands. (Just buy the PDF for a high quality copy, adjust it in image editor, then print it out.) I am very close to doing just this with that map.
|
|
I've seen maps like that before, but I don't have access to a device that can print on paper that size at home. Can you get a copy shop to print them for you?That's a fantastic idea for the smaller maps, thanks!
I was talking about some of the large maps, like for the final battle in Confirmation
My laminated map for this was $70.
I use paint to chop up the maps into nice sized pieces that I can print myself on either 11x17 or 8.5x11 pages, and laminate those (I have a small laminator at home).
To size the image, I simply select either 10x16 squares or 8x10 squares - this makes the squares 1 inch sized when printed. A bit of tape hold the maps together on the table.
One additional trick that I use is that I "fix" the images with copy and paste to hide the secret doors and rooms. I print a copy with the rooms and doors in place, cut out the small area needed for the door or room and laminate those small areas too. This way when the PCs find a secret door/room, I drop the small laminated piece on the map (bit of tape to hold in place) and the adventure continues.
Before I laminate the maps, I write on the back of the maps the name and number of the scenario, along with the pertinent room info.
I have a fair number of scenarios mapped out this way, and the local PFS GMs are using the maps on game days - makes life easier for everyone.
I can't find most of the ones on the lists early in the thread.
Anyone know which maps are still in print and used a lot for PFS scenarios?
|
|
I use paint to chop up the maps into nice sized pieces that I can print myself on either 11x17 or 8.5x11 pages, and laminate those (I have a small laminator at home).
To size the image, I simply select either 10x16 squares or 8x10 squares - this makes the squares 1 inch sized when printed. A bit of tape hold the maps together on the table.
One additional trick that I use is that I "fix" the images with copy and paste to hide the secret doors and rooms. I print a copy with the rooms and doors in place, cut out the small area needed for the door or room and laminate those small areas too. This way when the PCs find a secret door/room, I drop the small laminated piece on the map (bit of tape to hold in place) and the adventure continues.
Before I laminate the maps, I write on the back of the maps the name and number of the scenario, along with the pertinent room info.
I have a fair number of scenarios mapped out this way, and the local PFS GMs are using the maps on game days - makes life easier for everyone.
Can you do this with the maps found in the scenarios themselves? I seem to recall hearing somewhere that that wasn't allowed, but it seems like it would be useful.
Hey, I'm going to be dming my first pfs game and while reading through the scenario noticed that most of the maps used are actually able to purchase and was wondering if there were some that were widely used that I could purchase.I can't believe no one said the Basic flipmap. It allows you to draw anything.
The basic terrain flipmaps are the way to go!
|
I can't believe no one said the Basic flipmap. It allows you to draw anything.I personally think a Chessex mat is far more worthwhile than most pre-printed maps. Check their site for "factory seconds", or see what they offer at their booths at conventions. You can pick them up for a good deal with minor flaws. I have two and use them a LOT. Only problem is I have to redraw the Darklands every time I come across it...Close enough?
To be honest, having been a user of Chessex (and Crystal Caste) maps for 25+ years, I think that the basic flip-mat is a better product (and I have a Mondo-mat). It can take dry erase markers, and folds up tight. Far better for conventions, and seems to not be so vulnerable to "that pen" that penetrates the seal, and leave permanent marks on the chessex map (even though it was dry erase).
As for printing out the maps from scenarios... I copy the image saving with Paintbrush (note: I use a Mac). I then do one of two things.
1) I take the image, and import into PosteRazor, and size it up to be 1" squares this will chop it up into smaller pieces, with a small overlap (so trimming isn't so delicate a job).
2) Chop up the map in Paintbrush, room by room. Then save out into many smaller images, hopefully <8.5"X11" ... I then print these out, and mount on cardstock (that's what I did with all of my Gen Con maps).
|
|
Basic Flip-Mats are your best friend. I've got two of the original ones, plus the two-pack they released a couple years ago. I still think the original is slightly better simply because of the lighter color schemes. Better visibility for drawn-on maps. The multi-pack basic terrain map isn't quite as useful since I can generally only use one side at a time (the other side being too dark for players to see marker on very well).
| 1 person marked this as a favorite. |
Can you do this with the maps found in the scenarios themselves? I seem to recall hearing somewhere that that wasn't allowed, but it seems like it would be useful.I use paint to chop up the maps into nice sized pieces that I can print myself on either 11x17 or 8.5x11 pages, and laminate those (I have a small laminator at home).
To size the image, I simply select either 10x16 squares or 8x10 squares - this makes the squares 1 inch sized when printed. A bit of tape hold the maps together on the table.
One additional trick that I use is that I "fix" the images with copy and paste to hide the secret doors and rooms. I print a copy with the rooms and doors in place, cut out the small area needed for the door or room and laminate those small areas too. This way when the PCs find a secret door/room, I drop the small laminated piece on the map (bit of tape to hold in place) and the adventure continues.
Before I laminate the maps, I write on the back of the maps the name and number of the scenario, along with the pertinent room info.
I have a fair number of scenarios mapped out this way, and the local PFS GMs are using the maps on game days - makes life easier for everyone.
You can definitely do it with the maps in the scenarios - it is what I do.
You can't post the images online (like on the GM shared prep site). That is a violation of the Community Use policy. You can print and share the maps all you want as long as you aren't selling them.
I have dozens of scenario maps printed and laminated that get used at the game days and local conventions. The only thing that the other local PFS GMs need to bring for maps is some tape (and clean off the tape after the game).
|
|
Generally, black wet erase or dry erase markers are the easiest to come up with. Anything that makes it harder to see that black line is not recommended.
Now, if you have a full color set of appropriate markers, especially ones that will show up well, then go for it.
In general, though, I find it easiest just to use my beige flip mats, and just tell the players what the terrain not marked is supposed to be. I have a water terrain map, which I haven't used, from the time when the print shop printed both pages of the Ship PDF, instead of just the one side/page I ordered and paid for.
