Offering only one array would make mad classes even more difficult unless your one array is uber.
Wouldn't you prefer a choice?
Bearded Ben wrote:
I was sooo gonna put "and did it hurt" in my post!
I think a lot of the ideas that were in Beta were what Paizo wanted PF to be but the backward compatibility issues kept coming up so they ditched them - read "canned”
I fully expect a PF2, and it will not be backward compatible because Paizo no longer need that to keep us on board. What would the alternative be? 4.0 - no, 5th Ed - no. I think most of us are here for the long haul and although we'll probably grumble a bit, it won’t stop us buying it.
How do you add damage to a crossbow if you take it as your favoured combat style?
I know Focused Shot adds Int to damage as a standard action but what happens once you get a 2nd/3rd attack?
A Fighter can go down with Specialization and Weapon Training but the Ranger doesn't have those options.
Would it be better to go Fighter if you fancy playing a Crossbow user, or is it just a sub-optimal option period?
Not too many mentions of Summoning.
I find this a little odd as of all the normal classes [not Summoner]that can summon monster I would think the Cleric is probably the best suited to summoning monsters. It's a perfect round one option [flanking/control/defence] before your services are called upon to remove unwanted conditions and buff.
Also being a MAD class, summoning allows you to avoid the need for too much Strength or Constitution - let the monsters fight for you, not to mention that having just the right fighting abilities for each occation.
gustavo iglesias wrote:
I'm the DM. My rules go, without argument, period.
At the start of the campaign I'll state what's ok and what isn't, plus any houserules regarding how the game plays etc for that campaign.
We don't have pj wearing Rangers, generally all my players have multiple ideas and character concepts that they want to play and all of them have ready made back-up character in case of death - assuming they don't reincarnate/raise.
I'm the DM. My rules go, without argument, period. I run a balanced game and my players appreciate this because it means we don't get broken-ness/over-powered PC's in our games. We don't want that sort of game.
If a few more DM's had the balls to say No occasionally, they would suffer the fate of the many, many DM's that post here complaining about their players.
My vision of medieval in this Fantasy game does actually include magic - Think Swords and Sorcery.
I ban stuff... sorry to disappoint!
I usually ban classes that I don't think fit, but not fit the adventure but not fit my vision of Medieval.
For example I don't allow the chop-socky classes. To me, Ninja's etc just don't fit. Same goes for guns usually but I'm currently DMing Skull and Shackles and think they fit fine for that - none of the players have opted for one however!
If a player wants to play the Ranger with pj's I don't mind.
Lemmy gives some great example of how this doesn't ruin someones fun, they can bring the character concept and adapt it into a different class!
We each have our own ideas and rules, I'm not going to so mine are right or wrong, but I will say they work for my group and that is all that matters.
Paizo haven't added "oh but what if the PC's are evil" advice in the other AP's so why should they do the opposite in what is obviously not really intended to be a Heroic campaign?
The AP's would end up twice the size.
Those are some pretty good ideas. Modifying the encounter always is an option, but I would have loved some alternate way to do things from the developers, like in Ashes at Dawn over in Carrion Crown.
It seems to me that taking Good aligned PC's into this campaign is kinda asking for trouble. There are sooo many campaigns where it's impractical to allow evil character why not just suggest to the players that this campaign is better suited to N or E alignments.When I told my player's that the campaign I was going to run was "Piratey" none of them thought "Ooow, I'll play a Paladin then", they all went with N or E.
Why should the developers solve your own created problem? Choose a different AP.
Basically you're a Wizard with fluff. I'd recommend focusing on the fluff that others have suggested.
Hexes are all good fun and the more you have the better [although some of them are pants].
It's up to you whether you want to be a Buffer or De-buffer.
Spell Focus Enchantment and/or Necromancy
Edit: Add Toughness as Remco says you are "one of the squishier casters"
1) How do PC's learn what the weaknesses of Haunts are?
2) How do they learn how to damage them with positive energy/Holy water? Or is this assumed knowledge?
They can detect a Haunt with detect undead, but are there any other means that PC's can do to find them without setting them off??
I use save or die as I find the threat of death keeps the game exciting.
What I didn't like was the "Finger of damage" and "damage Living" changes.
I use a something in between 3.5 and PF. A Death spell reduces your hit point total to minus the spell level - and you're dying. This keeps the death factor in the game but still gives the players at least a chance of rescuing their friend.
All 4 files
I'd missed some of the 1 1/2 times Str mods on single attack creatures. Most were low level ones but still, they were incorrect, but no more! [I hope!]
The files with an "[a]" are the Augmented ones.
I've corrected a number of errors in my first set of files and used the new errata.
Summon Monster [with augment summoning]
Summon Nature's Ally
]Summon Nature's Ally [with augment summoning]
If you find any errors please mail me...
Jason Nelson wrote:
P.S. If you want a method for making forest and swamp and mountain hexes more useful, check out this thread for a possible idea
Thanks! That's exactly what is missing from the base rules. It's enough variation without over complicating everything, awesome!
Fun With Prestidigitation
The prestidigitation spell gives you the ability to perform minor magical effects for 1 hour. You can slowly lift 1 pound of material. You can color, clean, or soil items in a 1-foot cube each round. You can chill, warm, or flavor 1 pound of nonliving material. You can create small objects, but they look crude and artificial, and they are fragile. Any actual change to an object (beyond moving, cleaning, or soiling it) persists only 1 hour.
Here we go...
Change: You transform one object of Fine size or smaller into another object of roughly the same size. The object can weigh no more than 8 ounces. The change must be within the same kingdom (animal, vegetable, or mineral). For example, you could change a piece of paper into scrap of linen, and then change that into a rose. Likewise, you could change a coin into a ring. You could not, however, turn a strip of leather into a piece of paper.
Chill: You reduce the temperature of an object by about 40° F, but never below freezing (32° F). After an hour the object's temperature returns to normal.
Clean: You remove dirt, dust, and stains from floors, walls, dishes, windows, and the like, leaving these surfaces or objects spotless. You can clean an object with a volume of 1 cubic foot, or 1 square foot of the surface of a larger object, each round. The effect does not remove any foreign object of Fine size or larger. Dirt you remove is permanently gone, but objects you clean can get dirty again just like anything else.
Color: You bring color to an object. You can restore faded hues or give it a new color. If you add color, it must be from the visible spectrum (red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, or violet). You cannot change an object's pattern, such as adding or removing stripes or polka dots, but you can change the color in a pattern so that, for example, a blue garment with white stripes becomes green with yellow stripes.
Dampen: You leave an object damp to the touch for 1 hour. Damp objects have fire resistance 2 while the effect lasts.
Dirty: You soil, spot, and sully walls, floors, dishes, garments, or the like, leaving them dusty, filthy, or stained. You can dirty an object with a volume of 1 cubic foot, or 1 square foot of the surface of a larger object, each round. Dirt you add remains after the effect ends, but objects you soil can be cleaned again just like anything else.
Dry: You remove dampness and excess moisture from an object. Moisture you remove does not return after the effect ends, but the object can become wet again just like anything else.
Flavor: You give a substance a better, worse, or different flavor. You could, for example, make porridge taste like lobster bisque. You do not change the substance's quality or wholesomeness. Spoiled food remains spoiled, a poisoned drink is still deadly, and inedible material provides no nourishment -- you can make a twig taste like steak, but it remains a twig.
Gather: You neatly collect numerous objects. The objects you gather can be no larger than Fine size, no two items can be more than 10 feet apart, and their total weight cannot exceed 1 pound. You can place the gathered objects into a container you touch, or you can form a stack or pile that you touch.
Polish: You bring luster to a wood, metal, stone, leather, glass, or ceramic object. The object must be clean to start with. It remains shiny after the effect ends but can become dull again like anything else.
Sketch: You create a two-dimensional visual figment of whatever you desire. You can leave the image hanging in the air, in which case it is immobile, or place it on a mobile object, such as a shield. The image can be no more than 1-foot square, and it lasts a maximum of 1 hour.
Stitch: You magically sew seams in textiles or leather. You can create new stitching or repair old work. Unlike the mending cantrip, you cannot heal rips, holes, or tears (though you can patch or sew them together). If you have thread on hand, the stitches you make remain after the effect ends, but they are no stronger or weaker than normal stitching. You also can sew without thread, but then the seams last only an hour.
Tie: You magically tie a firm knot (as though taking 10 with the Use Rope skill) in a thread, string, cord, rope, or cable up to 10 feet long. You can knot together two such objects if they're within 1 foot of each other.
Warm: You increase the temperature of an object by about 40° F, but never above 140° F. After an hour the object's temperature returns to normal.
I started a Timeline for Second Darkness while reading through the adventure before deciding to run Rise of the Runelords instead!
However it may be of some use [or not!]
SPOILER WARNING - NOT FOR PLAYER'S
Thats NOT for player's
Second Darkness TIMELINE
Part One: Cheat the Devil, Take His Gold
Cheat the Devil and take his Gold
The Gold Goblin Job [EL5]
An Offer you can’t refuse –Employment at 10gp/week
Part Two: On the Job
On the Job at the Gold Goblin –repairs take place [ via money lent from Lymas Smeed. PC find out about the loan in A Missing Employee below]
The First Night [EL 2]
After 4 days…
A Unfriendly Warning [EL 1]
After 3 days PAYDAY…
A New Friend:
After 3 days…
Swamp Barracuda [EL 2]
After 4 days PAYDAY…
A Missing Employee…and
A Flat on Rat Street [EL 3]
After a week PAYDAY…
Attack on the Foamrunner [EL 4], and then…
Samaritha Beldusk leaves for the Cyphermages
After 4 days
Event- Hubbub in streets…
After 3 days PAYDAY… just after closing…
The Raid [EL variable]
After a week PAYDAY…
Part Three: Hidden Enemies and Unexpected Allies
Bone yard Ambush [EL 7]
• A minor temblor strikes the city, causing only a little damage but shaking everything pretty well for a few seconds.
Back to the Gold Goblin
• Group 1 (EL 5):